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The first time you take the exhaust manifold off, replace the locknuts
with lock washers and regular (13mm) nuts. Less broken studs, and they
won't turn out of the head.
(original tip from David Buschur and posted to the digest a
long time ago.)
Tighten them cold, then drive the car to fully warm it up and
have everything expand, and then re-torque them. |
Brad B |
| I was not looking forward to extracting a bunch of studs, so a week before
I planned on taking the manifold, turbo and o2 sensor housing off, I started
spraying the bolts/studs/nuts with liquid wrench NON-FLAMMABLE formula. I would
spray them at night before bed and before I drove home from work. It smoked like
a chimney but when I removed those parts, all of the nuts came off easily! |
Jay Prescott |
| When removing the PCV in favor of a second breather line, don't just plug off
the fitting in the intake manifold with a neoprene vacuum cap. Install a plug from
any Subaru Legacy/Impreza engine. I found mine off the back side of a 2.2L n/t
intake manifold. They are the exact thread pitch as the fitting in the DSM intake
manifold. It is a much more secure install than just plugging the pipe with a
neoprene plug plus you never ever have to worry about pressurization issues in
that area again. |
John Evert |
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| When rebuilding an engine and installing the rear main seal, an easy way
to get the seal installed is to use the smaller water pump pulley as a special
tool. It is the exact same diameter as the rear main seal and if you use it
in a vise you can press the seal in very easily (use a block of wood between
the aluminum seal housing and the vise). |
Mike B |
| Spark plug wire routing - if you removed your spark plug wires without paying attention
to the routing, don't worry. On 4G63s, the spark plugs are numbered from the timing belt/driver's side -
#1 is closest to the timing belt. The connections to the coilpack are 4123, with 4 being closest
to the head. See this pic. Note that since 4G63s use
a waste spark system that fires 1/4 and 2/3 together, you can also hook the wires to the coilpack
as 1423 and 1432 and it will work fine. Note that wire #3 is longer than #4 - shortest to
longest, they are 1243. |
Tom Stangl |
| Oil cap - the stock oil cap gasket often hardens to a plastic consistency, causing the cap
to leak. You can order a new gasket only, you don't need to order a new cap. The part # for
the gasket is MD311638. Note that if your old gasket is still in one piece, adding the new soft rubber
gasket on top of the old hardened one makes the cap seal to the valvecover better. |
Tom Stangl |
Dipstick popping out - happens due to crankcase pressure pushing the dipstick up:
- A good running motor will blow out a dip stick with a shriveled hard rubber seal
- A dead motor (lots of blow by, busted pistons) will blow out a good dipstick
- A 1/2 dead motor will blow out a 1/2 dead dip stick
Depending on the actual cause and the severity, the fixes can be:
- A spring/wire to hold the dipstick down
- Pinch the tube at the top a bit
- Get a new dipstick
- A full engine rebuild or new pistons
If it blows out under boost with a glowing red turbo and manifold, it makes a nice engine fire.
If it happens even once, figure out the cause and fix it. |
MikeatRRE |
| TB vacuum hose routing on 90s - the sticker under the hood, the Shop Manual, Chilton's, and
Haynes manuals all have different routing for the throttlebody vac hoses. On a 90, the front top is yellow
striped, the front bottom is non-striped, the top front is red striped, the top rear is green striped.
See this pic and this pic. Note
that 91-94s may have the same problem, I have not verified this yet. |
Tom Stangl |
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| Turbo DSM owners - be reminded that by increasing boost pressure, you're also increasing fuel
pressure. So obviously if you have a fuel pressure regulator and a boost controller, don't turn
them both all the way up, and use accurate gauges! Turning your FPR and BC both up to even
twenty will actually add forty psi's to your fuel pressure. A stock DSM pump runs roughly 42 psi
with the FPR vac line disconnected ("zero boost") in a turbo car, so your fuel pressure
would need to be 82 psi at 20psi boost with the FPR dialed up 20psi, and a stock DSM pump can't handle
that, you will run too lean. |
David Greenawalt |
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| Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement - When replacing the clutch master cylinder, the new MC
comes with the adjustment rod and the U-shaped bracket to attach it to the clutch pedal. The cotter pin
that holds the pin in the clutch pedal and U-shaped bracket can be a pain to get into place in the cramped
area under the dash. It is easier to not deal with the cotter pin at all. Back off the jamnut on the
adjuster rod where it goes into the U-shaped bracket. Back the rod all the way out of the U-shaped bracket.
Then you can remove the MC easily. Remove the U-shaped bracket from the new MC and throw it away. Install
the new MC and thread the adjuster rod into the old U-shaped bracket. |
Greg Bedard |
Clutch pedal assembly test - testing to see if your 1G clutch pedal and clutch pedal lever arm need
replacing:
- Press clutch to the floor
- Let clutch back up
- Wait 5 seconds
- Put your foot under the clutch pedal, lift up.
If the clutch pedal moves up at all, the assembly is worn, and you should replace the clutch pedal and
the small lever arm that bolts to it (as it is the interface between the 2 that is worn out. See
pedal arm and
pedal arm end)
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Tom Stangl |
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Balljoints or boots
FYI, you can buy new balljoints for the upper arms. NAPA and
other parts stores only list a front lower balljoint, but I've found that that balljoint
also works perfectly on both the upper and lower rear control arms for 1Gs. They are about $40
through NAPA. Expensive, but much cheaper than buying a new set of arms to cut the
balljoints out of them. Part numbers - NAPA - 260-1354, Beck Arnley - ??,
Moog - K9617
If you just need new balljoint boots, they are part MB176047. |
Tom Stangl |
Balljoint Installation
I had a hard time getting the ball joints into the a-arm until my
buddy Ken Moyer suggested a 'poor man's press fit' setup. If you are
having troubles getting them to go together, put the ball joint in the
freezer. Yes, freezer. Once it's been there for an hour or two, heat
the suspension arm with MAPP gas or propane. I used MAPP. It heats
quicker and hotter. Once I felt it was good and hot, I just used a
small piece of pipe and gloves to insert the joint into the
hole in the arm. I had to tap it into place, but no hammering at all!
It slid right in! Before I did that, I was really struggling with a
bigger hammer to get it pounded in, but it just would not go. |
Tim Beecher |
Power Steering pump leak - if your power steering is leaking from the top hose leading into the pump,
the dealer sells a kit for 1Gs containing 2 crush washers and 2 O-rings for the top feed line bolt:
JOINT KIT, P/S OIL PUMP FLOW
3/89-6/90 MB553032
6/90-5/94 MB636425
If the rack is leaking, you will need a to disassemble it and find out what seals need replacing, as CAPS
only lists a seal rebuild kit for manual racks (MB844738), they do not list a kit for power steering racks (at
least not in the CAPS version I have). |
Tom Stangl |
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Converting a 90-93 CA ECU to Federal ECU
All you need to do is solder a 1K resistor into the missing R129
position inside the ECU. If you look at some of
TMO's pages, you will
see the R129 and R130 resistors that the factory uses to program the
ECU for different applications. With R129 installed, the ECU thinks
it is one of the other 49 states and stops checking the EGR temp
sensor. |
Mark Rieb |
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