My friend Janner told me this easy fix, I just put it together.
Problem: When you turn on the foglight and the switch does not stay on. What causes it? There is a little wire that goes into a little plastic hole to let the switch stay on but when the plastic get older, it gets brittle and breaks off. You will see it when you take the switch apart.
The Fix: There is a spring inside the switch that pushes the button out all the time. Take the spring out.
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It's a good idea to take off the battery cable every time you work with the electrical system in the car. Snap the cover #6 out, take out the two screws under cover #6 then 4 more screws at the cluster panel #7, two at the top and two at the bottom. NOTE these are the black screws "A" in case you get them mixed up with the other screws. | |
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Pull the cluster cover forward. It will get stuck at the left side due to the wiring harness. Now unplug the connections behind all 3 switches (see pictures at the bottom). Squeeze the tab on the plug and pull it out of the switch. Take out the three brass-colored tap screws behind the cluster panel #5, NOTE these are the shorter screws "K". Pull the switch holder out of the cluster panel and push the foglight switch forward out of the switch panel (you may need to depress the tabs at the rear of the switch). Now get ready to do surgery. | |
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Here is what the foglight switch looks like. There are 2 plastic tabs that hold the top cover, one shown at the tip of screwdriver, the other one at the top of the picture. Use a small screwdriver to pry open the top cover. Careful, it's plastic, WARNING - a small ball and a spring will pop out. | |
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Flip open the top cover, you will see what I'm talking about, a little wire that goes into a little plastic hole. At the tip of pencil is the plastic piece that breaks (Yes, that small!). A small spring, a ball, and the top cover shown above the plastic piece. | |
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Now take off the orange plastic ring. Lightly pry on the tabs holding it on. The tabs might break, but you will never notice it when you put it back in the cluster panel, as the top cover will hold the trim ring in place. | |
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With the top cover out, pull the button out. Now you can see the big spring. Take it out and put everything back together. Now your switch will be push-on-pull-off not push-on-push-off like the stock one. | |
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The small spring goes inside the hole and the ball goes on top of the small spring (shown at the tip of the pencil). TEST push and pull the button from the front, make sure everything moves smoothly. Carefully snap the top cover on. Push the switch back into the switch panel. Screw it the switch panel onto to cluster panel. To turn on the foglight, you just push the switch and it will stay on. To turn off the foglight, you need to pull the switch out. | |
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Normally the foglights will not turn on until the headlights are on. Why? There is no power
to the foglight switch until the headlights are on. The Fix: find the power feed to the foglight switch when parking light is on. Where can I get the power? From the rheostat plugs. This wiring connection will let you turn on the foglight without the headlights on but the parking lights must be on. There are 3 plugs at the left side of the cluster, for popup headlights (white top), foglights (black middle), and rheostat dimmer (yellow bottom). |
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Cut the green wire behind the foglight switch leaving about 1 inch of wire on the plug. Tape off the end coming from the wiring harness. Jump (do not cut) the green with white stripe wire from the rheostat dimmer to that 1 inch green wire from the foglight switch. | |
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Now if you have a boost gauge (or any gauge) that you want to dim with the instrument cluster, connect the green with white stripe wire to the light wire of the gauge. Then connect the other gauge's wire to black with yellow stripe wire. Run the wires to the gauge (this is not an easy task so find your own way, but you can feed it from the instrument cluster up to the driver's dash speaker area with some experimentation). | |