If you have the O2 sensor socket, you may want to go ahead and unscrew the O2 sensor from the housing.

Once above the engine again, remove the upper heat shield. The upper heat shield has a path for the O2 sensor wire. This wire can be removed from its clips and placed aside. The upper heat shield is held to the exhaust manifold by three bolts. Remove them. I managed to pull out the heat shield without having to bend the dipstick, but you may want to unbolt the dipstick from the car completely. The lower heat shield is still held in place by a few bolts. Find the remaining bolts holding it in place and remove the lower heat shield. Note, if you didn't take out the O2 sensor, the lower heat shield won't be removable until you do.

Now is a good time to disconnect the plug for the driver's side fan.

With the plug removed, unscrew the 2 upper 10mm screws holding the driver's side fan in place while supporting the fan so it doesn't fall. Remove the fan and set it aside. Now focus your efforts on the intake side of the turbo. Beginning with the air filter, air travels through the mass air sensor down a rubber intake tube and into the turbo. Assuming you no longer have your air box in place, this will be a very easy removal process, as the air filter, mass air sensor, and rubber intake tube will all come out as one piece. Attached to the rubber tube are 3 vacuum lines, the mass air sensor plug, and the blow off valve return tube. Find them, remember where they go (or label them with tape), and remove them. The intake tube is secured to the turbo via a special hoseclamp. I used an extension and a socket to loosen it. Once it is loose, the air filter, MAS sensor, and rubber intake tube will come out in one piece and you will see this (though the fan is in place here).

Now is a good time to begin removal of the water lines for the turbo. The water feed line is the line on the side of the turbo facing the engine (shown here bracketed in pink lines). The water return line is the line on the side of the turbo facing the radiator. You will be leaving the hard lines in place. You will simply be removing the rubber tubes that fit over the hard line ends. Start with the water feed rubber tube. Slide the little hose clamps off and prepare for some fluid leaking from either hard line.

Now for the water return tube (shown here bracketed in pink lines). The water return tube, when removed, will release an INCREDIBLE amount of radiator fluid. I would suggest you remove the end of the rubber tube that fits over the turbo's hard line and stand ready with a bucket beneath you while you aim the rubber tube and the MASS EXODUS of the radiator fluid into the bucket. With it drained, you are ready to proceed.

The factory turbo oil feed line is a hard line separated in two parts, an upper line and a lower line. The lower line is attached to the oil filter assembly at one end and ends in a large female connector at the other end. The upper line is connected to the turbo at one end and a small male connector at the other end. The small male connector of the upper line joins the large female connector of the lower line. Note, in some cases, it is not necessary to remove the upper oil feed line from the turbo. It is only necessary to separate the upper and lower lines from each other. The following three subsections are instructions regarding what to do with the lower line only.

IF YOU HAVE THE HRC KIT WHICH INCLUDES A STAINLESS STEEL OIL FEED LINE:
This photo shows the HRC oil feed line along with the small double male connector inserted into the female fitting at the upper end of the line in the photo. You will need to remember which end of the double male connector inserts into the oil feed line. Fortunately, this only works one way. Actually, you will first screw and tighten the double male connector into the new turbo with the use of the smallest copper crush washer in the kit. Then tighten the oil feed line over the double male connector once you are ready to bolt the new turbo to the exhaust manifold. But you should experiment to see which end of the double male connector goes where.

Your next step is to remove only the upper factory oil feed line and leave the lower line in place, as it will be reused with the new stainless steel braided oil line. You must PAY ATTENTION. Read this carefully. The overall objective is to leave the lower oil feed line completely intact. There is only one way to do this. You MUST find a way to separate the small male connector from the large female connector. Note, the large female connector does not spin. THIS IS A CRITICAL POINT. Only the small male connector spins and thus it is the only connector that can be unscrewed. Hold the large female connector in place with a crescent wrench, or by whatever means necessary to ensure the large female connector DOES NOT MOVE. Then, with another open end wrench (or better yet a brake line fitting wrench), twist the small male fitting. Remember, loose is counterclockwise. What if it doesn't come loose? Try harder, or accept the fact that they are permanently attached. If you decide you absolutely cannot separate those connectors or worse you actually damage the lower oil feed line in the process of trying to separate them (meaning-you twisted the large female connector), then you must also accept the fact that you will need a new factory lower oil feed line (remember, you only need the LOWER half). This photo is one of the large female connector which I managed to DESTROY. Note that the large female connector is NOT supposed to come off the lower oil hard line. This photo is an example of a MISTAKE. Ideally, your large female connector will remain in place on the lower line and you will simply spin the small male connector of the new line into the large female connector.

There are, however, some alternatives. You could purchase a complete oil feed line that connects directly to the oil filter assembly and goes all the way to the turbo (currently, RRE is the only supplier of such a line) or you could forgo the oil filter assembly oil feed location and use the cylinder head feed location. If you opt for the latter, that is you want to now use the cylinder head feed location, you will need the hard oil feed line for a 94' GSX, 4 copper crush washers, two more banjo bolts, and follow the directions for installing a hard oil feed line supplied by another vendor (read on)

Well, just when you thought it was a little complicated, it gets even more complicated. Apparently, some second generation cars come with a lower hard line with a small MALE connector instead of the large female connector. In this case, HRC was kind enough to give you a small female to female brass fitting so you can join the small male connector of the new stainless oil feed line with the small male connector of the FREAK lower oil hard line. Remember, you still need to ensure you don't damage the lower oil feed line when you separate it from the factory upper hard line.

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IF YOU HAVE A HARD OIL FEED LINE WITH THE BANJO FITTINGS ON BOTH ENDS:
Well, you certainly won't need any part of the factory oil feed line. The best help to give you is on how to remove it. By whatever means necessary, cut the lower line in two places: just behind the large female connector and just behind the point where the lower line attaches to the oil filter assembly. The idea is to remove the hard line from the fittings on both ends so you can more easily remove those fittings without having to twist the hard line as well. With this cutting done, the majority of the lower line will be no longer connected to the rest of the oil line. It will, however, still be bolted to the block at a few points. Those will become visible when you are down there. You should try your best to remove the lower line as best you can as it no longer serves a useful purpose. Now, if you have a kit supplied by another vendor besides HRC, or you have had to purchase all your parts for the kit, or you have the HRC kit but have destroyed your lower oil feed line and want to use the cylinder head feed location, you must find a way to seal the point on the oil filter assembly where the oil previously was fed from. If you cut away the lower line just before the fitting that screws into the assembly, you could either unscrew the fitting and use a plug supplied with the kit to take its place, or completely seal the remaining length of hard line still attached to fitting that screws into the oil filter assembly (TS- trust me on this, use a plug). The point is to ensure that no oil will leak from the stock oil filter assembly location.

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IF YOU HAVE A COMPLETE OIL FEED LINE THAT COMPLETELY REPLACES THE FACTORY OIL FEED LINE:
You most likely have the Road Race Engineering line. You will need to remove the fitting screwed into the oil filter assembly and completely remove the rest of the lower oil feed line. This will leave a hole in the assembly. The line supplied by RRE comes with a new fitting specifically for use with the new oil line that screws into the oil filter assembly. Later, when the new turbo is in place with the new oil feed line connected to it (discussed later), you will connect the oil line to this new special fitting.

With the factory lower oil line separated from the upper line, all water and oil line connections to the turbo should now have been removed. You are ready to proceed with removing the turbo from the exhaust manifold. The turbo is held to the exhaust manifold via 3 bolts and a stud. . The stud is a guide, the four holes in the exhaust manifold are not threaded. The turbine housing of the turbo has four holes which are threaded.

It is not necessary to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the turbo. Once the three bolts and the nut that holds the stud are removed, the turbo may slip out from underneath the exhaust manifold. However, it may be difficult to remove the turbo in this manner with the stud still attached. As such, it may be useful to try and remove the stud from the turbo while the turbo is still underneath the exhaust manifold. This is the method I employed to do just that: Note, this removal process is necessary as the stud must be re-used with the new turbo (TS- use a replacement bolt, it makes any future turbo or exhaust manifold removal easier). Remove the 3 bolts and washers completely from the turbo and place them aside. Remove the nut and the washers that secure the stud, remembering to hold the turbo as it may actually slip out from underneath the exhaust manifold. Now, allow the turbo to slide down enough for you to see the smooth middle section of the stud. You will grip that middle section with pliers or a vice very tightly, but before you do, LIGHTLY tap the very top of the stud with a hammer and perhaps even spray the portion of the stud which threads into the turbine housing with a little WD-40. Now, resume your grip of the middle non-threaded section of the stud and begin to loosen it. In my case, the stud turned immediately after following these directions. This may not be the case for you. Try this a few times remembering not to tap the stud too hard. If this doesn't work, read on.

Try double-nutting the stud - this is where you use two nuts, spin them both onto the stud, then spin them in opposite directions to lock them against each other. Then turning the bottom one counterclockwise MAY remove the stud (if it is stuck badly, the nuts may just turn). This is not possible with the turbo in the car, though, you will have to remove it from the exhaust manifold in order to have enough threads to run 2 nuts on the stud.

If you have removed the stud from the turbine housing while the turbo was still beneath the exhaust manifold, then you should be able to easily remove the turbo from the car. If you were able to wiggle the turbo out from underneath the exhaust manifold with the stud in place and THEN removed the stud, then you'll be at the same stage.

With the turbo removed from the car and the stud removed from the turbine housing, you are now ready to scavenge parts from the factory turbo. With many kits, it is assumed you will reuse the factory banjo bolts from the water hard lines: this is the case with the HRC kit. These banjo bolts may be incredibly difficult to remove. I actually used a tire iron. If your kit included new water lines with the 16G turbo, then you can leave the factory water hard lines in place and simply scavenge the banjo bolts: this is the case with the HRC kit. If your kit did not include new water lines, you will have to remove the factory lines and install them on the new turbo possibly using the old banjo bolts as well, BUT remembering to use NEW copper crush washers. So, you will put the new (or old) banjo bolts through a crush washer, through the banjo bolt fitting, through another crush washer, and then thread it into the bearing housing. It is probable that by reusing the old water hard lines, you will need to bend them around the new turbo to fit well. The primary concern is to not damage the lines and install them in such a way that the open ends of the hard lines are oriented approximately the same way as they were on the factory turbo. This will make it easier to run the rubber tubing which will connect the hard lines from the turbo (16G) to the hard lines on the engine block.

This one is a pic of the 16G. I'd like you to note two things: that the water line is positioned and bent and, the inlet to the turbo has been ported and the step has been removed.

You should begin to remove the O2 sensor housing from the factory turbo. It is advisable to port the O2 sensor housing or install a ported O2 sensor housing onto the new turbo. You will need to remove 3 bolts and one stud, all of which secure the O2 sensor housing to the turbine housing of the turbo. You will need to reuse these 3 bolts. If you are installing the HRC kit, you are given a shiny new stud to use in the O2 sensor housing instead of reusing the existing piece. If you are not given a new stud in the kit you are installing, or you have no kit, you should remove the stud using one of the before mentioned techniques for doing so and then reinstall it on the new turbo's turbine housing. Note, in all cases, take note of the positioning of the 3 bolts and the stud and install them anew using the same positioning. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use a little anti-seize compound on these threads (TS- use 2600 degree nickel antiseize if you can get it, it is far better than standard antiseize), as they will see extreme heat. Also, it would be a good idea to get a new gasket. The HRC kit and some others include a new gasket, otherwise contact the dealer for a new O2 sensor housing gasket for a 94' GSX.

THE NEW OIL RETURN PIPE

The factory oil return pipe may be reused if you have no kit and have not purchased one. To do so, you will need to drill the bolt holes on the turbo-end flange a little further apart to fit the new turbo's bearing housing.

With the new water lines in place on the new turbo and with the O2 sensor housing replaced, now would be a good time to position the new oil feed line and the new oil return pipe. Here is a photo of the factory oil return pipe (above) and the HRC oil return pipe fully assembled (below). Note, it would be wise to follow the below directions and NOT install the HRC oil return pipe fully assembled. The photo is for reference purposes only.

IF YOU HAVE THE HRC KIT

If you have the HRC kit, there will be some slight assembly required. There are two large identical male-male fittings included in the kit which should first be screwed into the aluminum blocks included in the kit. These aluminum blocks are of two different shapes: one rectangular and the other diamond shaped. These male-male fittings thread easily only one way, so be careful to insert them the right way. To check, try inserting the other end of the fitting into the blue pipes fitting. You should tighten the fittings into the aluminum blocks but be cautious not to over tighten as you may end up damaging the aluminum. At that point, you should take JUST the rectangular shaped block with its fitting attached and get back underneath the car and bolt the rectangular block to the oil pan using one of two rectangular shaped gaskets in the kit and two small bolts (two of four included in the kit) accompanied by their own small washers. With this fitting and aluminum block secured tightly to the oil pan via those small bolts, you can assemble the other diamond shaped aluminum block and male-male fitting, again being cautious not to overtighten. Take JUST the diamond shaped aluminum block with its fitting attached and bolt the aluminum block to the bottom of the new turbo's bearing housing using the other rectangular gasket (it may actually be irregularly shaped), the two remaining small bolts, and their accompanying small washers. You may now secure the blue return pipe to the diamond shaped aluminum block's male-male fitting by tightening the female fitting of the blue pipe over the male fitting of the aluminum block. This should be a very tight connection. You will wait to install the lower end of the blue pipe to the rectangular aluminum block's male fitting. That will occur when the turbo is on the car.



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IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER VENDOR'S KIT OR YOU HAVE PURCHASED A 94' GSX OIL RETURN PIPE OR YOU HAVE DRILLED OUT THE TURBO-SIDE FLANGE OF THE FACTORY PIPE

You can bolt the return pipe to the new turbo's bearing housing. You should be using a new gasket and possibly new washers for the bolts, although not absolutely necessary. Your pipe is all one piece, so there is no assembly required.

THE NEW OIL FEED LINE

Before installing the new line, consider pouring a small amount of oil into the oil feed of the turbo's bearing housing.

IF YOU HAVE THE HRC KIT

Your new oil feed line should be installed as follows. Begin by screwing the small double male fitting into the new turbo's bearing housing. Note, this small fitting only goes in one way so be careful. To check, try threading the small male fitting into the 90 degree female fitting on the stainless oil line. This connection only works one way. The photo shows the fitting correctly installed.

With the correct end of the fitting verified, use the small crush washer included in the kit (NOTE: at this point, you will have used all of your crush washers that came with the HRC kit. Remember, you used a total of 4 large ones for the new water lines, and you used 4 very small ones for the bolts that hold the aluminum blocks in place, leaving one which is used now) and secure the fitting to the turbo tightly. Then, tighten the 90 degree female fitting over the exposed male fitting on the turbo. NOTE: this may be a weak point of your installation. ALMOST everyone I know had a leak at the turbo oil feed location during their installation. You might. Make sure you tighten the 90 degree female fitting.

This photo shows the turbo with the water lines in place with their banjo bolts (only the water return banjo bolt can be seen), the blue return pipe in place, the old stud in place, and the oil feed line in place. Note: the oil line should be routed so the line comes off the turbo and heads in the direction of the radiator, NOT in the direction of the engine.

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IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER VENDOR'S KIT (BESIDE'S ROAD RACE ENGINEERING) OR YOU HAVE PURCHASED THE OIL FEED LINE FOR A 94' GSX.

Your oil feed line looks like a hard line with banjo fittings on both ends. You should determine which end will bolt to the cylinder head and which end will bolt to the turbo by positioning the line at the cylinder head oil feed location. Once determined which end goes where, secure the banjo bolt fitting to the turbo by putting the banjo bolt through a crush washer, through the banjo bolt fitting, through another crush washer, and then threading it into the bearing housing; but don't tighten the banjo bolt too tight YET. (The idea is once the turbo is on the car, you will have enough flexibility to position the hard line at the cylinder head oil feed location and then secure the banjo bolt fitting with two crush washers and the banjo bolt. THEN, once all the banjo bolts have been threaded, you can TIGHTEN everything as best you can).

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IF YOU HAVE ROAD RACE ENGINEERING'S OIL FEED LINE OR KIT WHICH INCLUDES THEIR OIL FEED LINE

First connect the stainless line to the banjo bolt fitting by tightening the metal sleeve connector. NOTE, tighten this well as I had mine leak. Next, thread the banjo bolt through the fitting and the two included crush washers and TIGHTEN this banjo bolt as best you can. This is easier to do now rather than when the turbo is on the car.

You should now have the oil lines, the water hard lines, and the O2 sensor housing all together with the new turbo. Be sure all bolts and fittings are tight. You should now be ready to reinstall the turbo to the exhaust manifold. You should have a new gasket to go between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Position it, push the stud through the exhaust manifold (of course, you have already threaded the stud through the new turbo's turbine housing) and secure the stud with the nut and the washer that go beneath it. Finish installing the 3 bolts to secure the turbo to the exhaust manifold and use a torque wrench to tighten the 3 bolts and the nut over the stud to the factory specification.

With the new turbo in place, you should now breath a sigh of relief. From this point on, it's almost the reverse of the factory turbo removal process, so it should proceed fairly easily.

You know and remember where the water hard lines from the engine block are. You had to remove the rubber tubing that connected the water hard lines. The rubber tubing that links the water feed line from the engine block to the water feed line from the turbo may be reused. The water return line rubber tubing will have to be replaced with something longer, however. With the water lines in place, turn your attention to the oil lines. Get underneath the car and connect the return pipe to the oil pan. If you have the HRC kit, you will spin the female fitting of the blue pipe over the male fitting in the rectangular aluminum block. (this is much more obvious than it sounds) Tighten the connection. If you have another vendor's kit, or you have purchased you return pipe from dealer, or you have reused the factory line, position the pipe against the oil pan and, with the use of a new gasket, thread the two bolts through the flange and into the oil pan thereby securing the lower half of the oil return pipe.

Now turn your attention to the oil feed line.

IF YOU HAVE THE HRC KIT

From underneath the car, you should see the oil feed line coming off the turbo and the lower half of the factory oil feed line. The HRC line comes to a small male connector. The lower half of the factory line comes to a large female connector. Join them. If your lower line comes with a small male connector INSTEAD of a large female connector, use the double female fitting supplied in the kit to make the connection.

IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER KIT OR YOU HAVE PURCHASED THE 94' GSX OIL FEED

The oil feed line should be exposed and close to the cylinder head feed location if you have installed the line on the turbo correctly. There is currently a plug in the cylinder head oil feed location. Remove the plug and put the banjo bolt through a crush washer, through the banjo bolt fitting, through another crush washer and finally thread it into the cylinder head. Tighten this banjo bolt to 10-14 ft-lbs. Tighten it SLOWLY, as many times the threads in the head can strip. If it seems like it is just spinning and not tightening, remove it, you may find the threads from the head are stripped out. Unfortunately all you can do at this point is stuff some cloth into the head to catch chips, remove the hex plug at the front of the head, and drill and tap to install a 10mmx1.25 HeliCoil (NOT fun).

IF YOU HAVE THE RRE COMPLETE OIL FEED LINE

You should have already tightened the banjo bolt on the oil feed to the turbo while the turbo was off the car, and you should have already tightened the sleeve connecting the banjo bolt fitting to the oil line. All that is left is the connection to the oil filter assembly. First, use the large fitting supplied to thread into the oil filter assembly and tighten it. Then, take the other end of the oil line and connect it to this fitting. Tighten it well.

With the oil feed and return lines tightened and the water lines connected, the turbo installation is almost at an end.

You should now begin to bolt back on all that you have taken off. Those items should be cluttering up a section of your workspace, but to recap:

• Reinstall your downpipe (perhaps making use of a new downpipe to O2 sensor housing gasket).
• Reinstall your O2 sensor by first running it through the lower heat shield and then threading it into the O2 sensor housing.
• Reinstall your lower heat shield by securing it with the bolts.
• Reinstall your upper heat shield as well by securing it with the bolts and replace the O2 sensor wire back in the clips of the heat shield.
• Reinstall your driver's side radiator fan. Don't forget: there are 4 10mm bolts and a plug to connect.
• Reinstall your air filter, mass air sensor, mass air sensor plug, and rubber intake tube. Note, the rubber intake tube has a rubber sleeve inside it that previously fit over the stock turbo. If left in place, it might difficult to fit the rubber intake tube over the inlet snout of the turbo. I removed mine and tightened the clamp. Reroute all the vacuum hoses you disconnected previously. CRITICAL NOTE: Now is the time to make sure there is some source of positive pressure that reaches the wastegate actuator. If you do not connect the wastegate actuator to a source of positive pressure (such as: a "T" into the blow off valve vacuum line, or a tap in the new intercooler piping you have purchased, or, as it is with the HRC kit, the tap on the compressor housing of the turbo) your boost pressure will be out of control and you will most surely damage the engine.
• If you have removed your radiator hose because you have drained your radiator fluid, reconnect your hose.
• IF YOU HAVE DRAINED YOUR OIL AND/OR YOUR RADIATOR FLUID, ADD OIL AND RADIATOR FLUID NOW.
• Even if you did not drain your radiator fluid, you will have lost a substantial amount when you removed your water return line. Stand ready with antifreeze and/or water and/or Redline Waterwetter.

You should be ready to install the new intercooler piping. If you have almost any kit supplied by a vendor, you have been given a drop tube. If this is the case, you will need to connect the drop tube (sometimes known as the J pipe) to the turbo using the associated gasket and bolts. Then you will need to connect your factory rubber intercooler hoses to the new pipe and route them to the intercooler. Note, in almost all cases, it will be necessary to cut the factory rubber piping to make this work. NOTE, be sure to TIGHTEN all hose clamps here as there is a strong possibility you will blow off your intercooler piping under boost conditions.

If you do not have a kit, you want to consider purchasing a lower intercooler pipe from a vendor. Road Race Engineering is one vendor who will sell the lower intercooler piping for a 16G turbo. Try them all.

With the intercooler piping and all the other connections made, it is now time to prime the oil system while the car is still on jack stands. Did you remember to put oil in the engine if you drained it?

First remove the ignition coil plug between the valve cover and the throttle body. There are actually two plugs. I removed them both because I didn't know which one to remove. With the plugs removed, turn the engine over 15-20 seconds to get oil pumping through the turbo. Check for leaks at the oil feed location (whether it be on the cylinder head or the oil pump assembly), the turbo's oil feed point on the bearing housing, and all of the oil return points. If there is a leak, looses slightly, then tighten. If not, proceed. Does the car have enough radiator fluid?

Reconnect the ignition coil plug and start the car. Immediately check for leaks. If any, shut it off and loosen then tighten. If all is clear, proceed to put the car back down and make plans for a test drive. It is quite possible you will have a boost leak or an oil leak or a water leak, or even all three. Don't drive more than 1/10th of a mile but do get the rpm's over 3000 rpm. Listen for boost leaks. If you have a boost leak, it's most likely your new intercooler piping. Check there first. You may have an oil leak. Check it as soon as you finish your very short trip.

If all is well, congratulations.