How to install a 5 point harness

Remove the stock lap-belt from its left and right mounting points. (TS- I believe you can leave the stock belt in if you work around it.)

• Locate the gray rail under the driver seat on the right side
• Remove the gray rail (what is that for anyway?)
• Bolt the right side of the harness down using the rail bolt & location. (TS- I believe that you can remove this rail on the stock system, and install the 5pt belt, and still use the stock belts, but haven't confirmed it yet (will be installing 5pts myself soon))
• (Picture shown: looking down behind the driver's seat)

• On the outside, peel back the carpet and remove one of the large bolts holding down the retractor unit, and bolt the belt down with it
• You will have to cut the carpet for the belt to come through
• (TS- I believe that you can slit the carpet over the bolt, put a washer/spacer in that cut, and bolt the belt down leaving the retractor in the car.)

• I have moved the sub belt from under the seat to behind the seat
• Slip it through the seat hinge area from behind and sit on it

• If you get belt grommets, you can cut a hole through the seat so the belt can come straight up from under the seat

• I have the Y-type shoulder harness which is longer than individual shoulder belt
• I use the one of the rear seat back latches to hold the belt
• (Wrap around the loop, no bolt here)
  
  
• * UPDATE* I now wrap the belt around the rear strut tower bar

• I run the shoulder belt over the top of the seat and slip it under the headrest
• This way the belt can not slip off to either side

• If you get belt grommets, you can cut holes through the seat so the belts can come straight through the seat
  Install:
  • Place the grommets on the seat, draw around the inside of the grommet
  • Cut an X in the fabric inside of that square
  • Peel back the fabric, mark the foam around the inside of the grommet, cut/pull out everything inside the line
  • Place the grommet against the steel, draw around the outside of the grommet
  • Drill large holes through both layers of steel at the outside corners of the marks (make sure to use a light touch when almost through the second layer of steel, or use some type of limiting collar/tube on the bit so it doesn't punch through the back foam/fabric)
  • Use a Dremel and cutoff disc or carbide bit to cut out the rest of the steel layers (go slow, you don't want the steel heating up too much)
  • Push the grommet through the hole in the steel, draw around the inside of the grommet, remove the back foam
  • Push the grommet through the back foam, up against the back fabric, then cut small slits inside the grommet corners
  • Joint the 4 slits to make an X in the back fabric
  • Push the "outer" grommet half through the seatback, making sure the flaps of fabric don't stick out (you may need to trim them a bit, I did)
  • Put a thin skim of RTV around the outside of the "inner" half (the side that will fit within the outer half), push the inner half through the other side of the seat and into the outer half
  • Run some zipties through both grommets to hold the inner edges together, run some zipties through the grommets and around the outer edge of the seatback to hold the outer edges
  • Let the RTV dry for a day, and cut the zipties off. The fabric will still be compressed from the zipties, but it goes away after a while
• This is another way to keep the belts from shifting
• It looks "racy" and cool, too ;-)
• The grommets are available from Corbeau dealers. Go to Corbeau to find a local dealer to order them from. Pricing for the grommets (as of 5/12/00) are $11 each.

• Get a racing seat :)
• **WARNING ** I USE THIS BELT ONLY FOR AUTO-X, I DON'T THINK IT WILL PASS TECH INSPECTION FOR ROADRACING.