Ingalls rear control arm install

Ingalls Engineering's rear upper adjustable control arms are very handy for setting your camber properly on a 1G when you raise or lower your car beyond the stock system's capability to adjust the camber within spec. Install the arms is quite easy, this VFAQ will run through installing the balljoints in the arms, and bolting them up. This is a modification of the instructions that come with the arms.

FYI, you can buy new balljoints for the upper arms. NAPA and other parts stores only list a front lower balljoint, but I've found that that balljoint also works perfectly on both the upper and lower rear control arms for 1Gs. They are about $40 through NAPA. Expensive, but much cheaper than buying a new set of arms to cut the balljoints out of them.
Part numbers:

You can also use polyurethane balljoint boots instead of the stock rubber ones. Taking a tip from someone in the Talon Digest, I ordered some Energy Suspension polyurethane tierod boots. They look too small to fit on the balljoints for the 1G front lower arm, and 1G rear upper/lower arms, but they stretch right over the balljoint and seal well. These boots are available in at least black, red, and blue, I didn't check on other colors. The nice thing is they only cost $4/pair. You'd need 4 pair to do an entire 1G (front lower, steering rack tie rods, rear upper, rear lower). The stock boots tend to tear every time you use a pickle fork to remove the arms, hopefully the poly boots will hold up better. Even if they don't, they cost about the same as stock boots. You can order these through http://www.suspension.com/mitsubishi.htm

Recommended parts/tools:


    Here is one of the Ingalls arms as it is shipped disassembled. The piece of 1.5"Dx2.5"L pipe above the box is not included, I bought it at the local hardware store to help press the balljoints into the arms.

    Note: The 3842L is for the left (driver) side of the vehicle and the 3842R is for the right (passenger) side of the vehicle. With the units placed on a flat surface and the ring (ball joint end) tilted up (away from the surface), the 3842L will point left and the 3842R will point right.

    Ensure both jam nuts are threaded all the way against the center hex of the adjustment bolt. Assemble the SmartArmsTM by turning both pieces onto the adjusters equally until threads are no longer visible.
 

    Raise the rear of vehicle and support body on jack stands. Remove rear tire and wheel assembly.

    Remove the bolt from the inner end of the support arm at the body mounting bracket (1). Remove the nut from the ball joint at the upper support arm (2). Using a ball joint separator ("pickle fork") or similar method, separate the ball joint taper and remove the support arm. Take care to not damage the threads of the ball joint.

 

    Remove the boot and clip ring from the ball joint. Take appropriate measures to keep the grease in the boot and on the ball joint from getting contaminated. (Note, I threw out the old boot since the pickle fork split it, cleaned off the balljoint, and used new synthetic grease and a new balljoint boot. When ordering boots, order extras, since you often destroy them when pulling the balljoint from the spindle).

 

    Using a press or suitable method, press out the ball joint from the support arm. Use care when removing the ball joint so threads are not damaged and grease is not contaminated. (Note, since I was using new balljoints, I skipped this step.)

    Using a press or suitable method, press the ball joint into the SmartArmTM from the top with the opening in the SmartArmTM angled slightly downwards. WARNING: IMPROPER BALL JOINT INSTALLATION WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE OR BREAKAGE OF THE NEW SmartArmTM AND POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE.

    Pic of the alignment of the balljoint.

    I used a piece of 1.5" diameter x2.5" long pipe and a vise to hand press the balljoint into the arm. Note the balljoint has a step on it, you can place it partway through the arm's ring. The pipe is just the right diameter to butt up against the arm's ring and still let the balljoint fit through.

    DO NOT place the balljoint in the vise like this! There is a high spot on the bottom of the balljoint, if you put it in the vise like this and compress it, you will ruin the balljoint!

    Do it like this - place the balljoint in the vise like this! Use a pair of cushioned pliers, place the handles against the outer edge of the bottom of the balljoint with the high spot on the bottom of the balljoint between the handles.

    As you press the balljoint into the arm, you may need to rotate the arm around a bit to get it to seat squarely. Here it is fully seated into the arm. The nice new balljoint boot is waiting in the background. NOTE that you will need to put a good bit of force on the vise handle to press the balljoint in. Use a benchmounted vise if at all possible, doing it like this with an unmounted vise was not fun, I had to press on the vise with my foot while pulling on the handle.

    Here's the balljoint fully seated - note the groove in the balljoint shank, this is where the balljoint clip goes.
 

    Reinstall the clip ring and boot on the ball joint.

    Install the new SmartArmTM into the body mounting bracket and replace the bolt with the stock adjustment cam in its center position. Tighten the nut and torque to 103-118 ft. lbs. (140-160 N.M.).

    Install the ball joint stud into the spindle, torque ball joint nut to 44-53 ft. lbs. (60-72 N.M.).

 

    Replace the tire and wheel assembly, and jack up the car by the spindle so as to preload the suspension.
 

    Adjust camber by loosening jam nuts and turning the adjusting bolt to the desired specifications. DO NOT exceed more than 5/8" (16mm) of exposed threads on either side of the adjusting bolt.

 

    Place a wrench or vice grips on the flat of the tube next to ball joint. While using the wrench to keep the ball joint body perpendicular to the ball joint stud, tighten the jam nuts on the adjusting bolt. (Note - tighten these very tight - mine backed out the first 2 days they were installed - the first day because I didn't tighten them enough, and the second day I think because the powdercoating had compressed, allowing the nuts to loosen a bit. While it is not absolutely necessary, using red Loctite #271 will help a lot).

 

    Finish tightening the jam nuts by holding the adjusting bolt and set rear toe to specifications. Verify that the ball joint is still aligned properly at the spindle (make sure it is not cocked to one side or the other). WARNING: INCORRECT BALL JOINT ALIGNMENT WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE OR BREAKAGE OF THE NEW SmartArmTM AND POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE!

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Last modified: Sep 3, 1999
Copyright 1999, Tom Stangl, Ingalls Engineering
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