The cable ends are located on top of the transmission in the area under the thermostat. To remove the cable ends, first pull the cotter clip and top washer if fitted (it may be a cotter pin). You should then be able to slide the cable end with the stock rubber bushing off the pin. Remove the lower washer from the pins. Use the included emery cloth to clean the pin of any rust or junk that would prevent the new bushing from sliding freely on the pin.

To remove the old rubber bushings from the cable end, push one side of the rubber with a screwdriver and it should pop right out.

Slide the new brass bushing in as shown and secure with an E-clip. The side with the clip should face out. To install the clip, you can tap it in with a small hammer or squeeze it in with pliers. It is a good idea to lube the pin a bit with anti-seize or grease. If your shift cable end has a lot of rust on it, you might have to sand the inside of the end to allow the bushing to slide in.

Install the cable with new bushing onto the pin, making sure that you have removed any washers that were on the pin. The cable will need no washers, just put the cotter pin back in and you are done!

The lower cable is the same as the upper. TIP: Toyotas use a slick little clip instead of a cotter pin. I think the Toyota clip is far superior to a hardware store cotter pin. The Toyota part number is 90468-14032. The stock cotter pin will work fine, but can break after removing it more than a few times.

If the cables gives you trouble when sliding them back onto the pin, remove the clip on the cable housing to allow the cable to move a little, then re-install after the end is on. For an extra tight shifter feel, remove the bellcrank lever so that you can remove the little square slider that actuates the shift rod. This is often very worn from years of use. Rotate it 90 degrees, grease the pivot and outside, and re-assemble.

Please mail me at cacrawfo@speed-source.net with any questions. Enjoy!

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