Remove the 11 14mm bolts holding the end case to the center section. You may need to tap the case on the sides to break it loose from the locating pins. Note the wave spring (see yellow arrow) inside the case end (it mates with the 5th gear synchro assembly) and its' orientation with 2 detents. Do not lose this spring!
Remove the C-clip (see yellow arrow) holding the center viscous Limited Slip unit on.
Remove the viscous LS by pulling straight up. There will be one steel ball holding the output shaft to the transfer case in a hole (see yellow arrow) on the centermost shaft of the viscous LS unit. It may not come out easily and the shaft may need to be tapped sideways with a rubber mallet. Note the steel ball placement. There are two holes in this center shaft, it does not seem to matter which hole it goes in for installation. Remove the transfer case output shaft while noting then needle bearings located right under the output seal where the shaft meets with the transfer case.
Use a small chisel to unstake both large nuts on the end of the input and intermediate shafts (use 36 mm sockets for both). Remove both nuts (see yellow arrows). I used a 3/4" drive air gun for removal. To hold the gears from spinning, a large screwdriver was pryed against an end cap bolt that was screwed into the "case adapter". The end of the screwdriver was forced against one tooth of the 5th gear. Another method that I didn't try would be to get the trans in 2 gears at once. Look at step 7 and remove the 5th/rev shift fork pin. Slide the 5th gear synchronizer assembly so that the 5th gear is engaged. Operate the normal shift controls to engage any other FORWARD gear (1-4), first gear would probably be best since it's ratio is the farthest away from 5th. Since the transmission is now in two different gears at the same time, it should be locked up and nut removal should be possible. After nut removal, put 1st and 5th gears back in neutral.
Remove the 5th/rev shift fork pin.
Remove the 5th/rev snychro assembly/shift fork and 5th speed gear. Note the orientation (top and bottom) of the 5th/rev synchro assembly. Replace the 5th and rev gear synchro rings or entire 5th/rev hub/slider assembly with synchro rings.
Remove the 5th speed intermediate gear. It was very difficult for me to get this off, I needed to pry it with 2 large screwdrivers. (TS - If you have a gear puller, try using it instead, but be careful to make sure the arms on the puller grip enough of the back of the gear, you don't want to chip the teeth on the gear.)
Using a 14mm socket, remove the 3 "poppet balls, springs, and plugs (shown removed).
Note the orientation of "poppet" assemblies.
Remove the "restrictor ball assembly" and washer.
Remove the reverse gear switch and speedometer driven gear assembly (no picture).
Remove the "transaxle case adapter" by prying gently upward.
Remove the center differential, it pulls up easily.
The center differential removed.
Remove the "reverse idler gear shaft bolt".
Remove the transaxle case by prying up gently. Note the front differential shim that will be located on top of the upper differential bearing (see yellow arrow).
Also note the orientation of both of the oil guides, the large oil guide will probably fall off the transaxle case.
Remove the two bolts (yellow arrows) holding the reverse shift lever assembly/shoe to the reverse idler gear. Note the orientation of the connection to the 5th/rev shift rod (pink circle).
Also note the orientation of the reverse shift lever shoe (pink circle). Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft (yellow arrows). Note the orientation of threaded hole (green arrow). This hole is for the "reverse idler gear shaft bolt" removed above. This threaded hole will need to be in the same direction that it wass in when removed to allow re-assembly later on.
Remove the 1-2 shift fork roll pin.
Remove the 3-4 shift fork roll pin.
Remove the input shaft assembly with the 3-4 shift fork and intermediate shaft assembly (gears 1 and 2). Leave the 1-2 shift fork for now. Note the orientation of the 3-4 shift fork.
Note the broken 1-2 shift fork!! :-) Remove it.
Remove the front differential and front output shaft assembly.
The front differential may need some coaxing to get it out.
Remove the magnet and holder. Note the orientation.
Remove the snap ring off of the end of intermediate gear assembly (1st/2nd gear) and press off first gear (and bearing on end).
Remove the 1-2 synchronizer assembly, note the orientation of the synchro rings.
If you are replacing the hub/slider assembly, note the orientation of the synchronizer spring (red arrow) and synchronizer keys (yellow arrow). These do not come with the purchase of a hub/slider and must be re-used.
My second gear was grinding on every shift, so I decided to replace second gear along with 1-2 hub/slider assembly. I have a 90 trans, but when the second gear was ordered, it had a different internal diameter. The old gear is on the left, the new gear is on the right.
Replace both synchronizer rings (and other parts as needed/desired). Re-assemble the intermediate shaft as shown (press the bearing sleeve first while making sure the synchronizer rings are seated next to the synchronizer keys while assembling).
Then press on the tapered roller bearing.
Remove the bearing sleeve on the input shaft assembly (3rd/4th gears).
Remove the snap ring on the input shaft assembly.
- The intermediate shaft assembly needs a snap ring to end up with .0004-.0043" of end play.
- The input shaft assembly needs a snap ring that is the thickest ring that will fit in the groove, a range of .0004-.004ccc
- The center viscous LS needs a snap ring to end up with .0039-.010" of end play.
- If replacing the bearings, the bearing races need to be shimmed to
end up with these endplays/preloads:
- Input shaft 0-.002" of end play
- Intermediate gear pre-load .0031-.005"
- Center differential case pre-load.0031-.005"
As in the intermediate shaft assembly, remove 4th gear, 3/4 gear synchronizer assembly, and replace both synchronizer rings. Re-assemble in reverse order.
Another thing to keep in mind is the endplay of the shaft assemblies themselves and once installed in the side case.
OK, I wimped out and bought a brand new trans (got it for 1343$, in case you're wondering about the best prices [TS - contact James Oxley about this price, NOT me!]). In talking with several others who had rebuilt their trannies, some had to redo certain parts and/or pre-loads/endplays to get high RPM shifting acceptable. Parts to do everything (all synchro assemblies, speed, gears, seals, bearings, etc.) were pushing 5-600 dollars and a rebuild is $850 (not sure what gets replaced for that cost?), so the price did not seem that bad to me. You do need to swap the transfer case input shaft if you have a 90, as the trans is not available any longer with that shaft. The shaft itself is available, but is pricey at $160. Anyways, good luck on your rebuild, drop me a note and let me know how it turned out, especially if it went OK on the first crack. I'll try to keep a running number of how many successfully did it the first shot.
NOTE: do NOT contact me about rebuilding a tranny for you, I am not a shop, I only rebuilt my own tranny. I don't sell trannies either, contact a dealer to buy a tranny.