This is a picture of the window switch already out of the car, with its' back removed. The back comes off pretty easily, just pry it outwards off of the white tabs (the red arrow points to one of the tabs), and it will pop off. The pink arrow is pointing to the stock auto-DOWN diode. If you look at the circuit board where it is mounted, you should see the schematic for the diode right underneath it. This is important in the future.

This is a picture of the circuit board on the other end of the switch assembly. It shows the empty space for the auto-UP diode (circled). Note it looks like a triangle pointing at a bar - that bar is very important. Diodes have stripes on their bodies, and that stripe should be towards the bar on the circuit. If you hook it up backwards, you will burn up the circuit board. Note that the bar is away from the white plug on the switch. The alignment of the UP diode should match the DOWN diode on the circuit board, and in your wiring.

This is a picture of the other side of the circuit board after I used desoldering braid and a soldering iron to remove the solder. It's ready to insert the diode.

Sliding the diode leads into the solder holes to check how far to trim the leads. Don't leave them too long, or they can arc to the main switch contacts. Once I get the spacing of the 90 degree bends set on the diode leads, I trim them off so they only stick through the circuit board 1/16" or so. Note how the band on the diode matches up with the bar on the diode diagram on the circuit board.

Another view of the diode in place, while checking lead length. Once you have the lead length right, just solder the diode down to the diode pads, and you're almost done.

The only thing left to do on the switch is to cut off the tab on the driver's switch that keeps it from locking down into the auto-up position. Just cut the tab off flush with the bottom of the rest of the button, and you're done with the auto-up mod. But while you have the switch out, you might as well clean the contacts...

Notice in the pic above that the Window Lock button was missing from the switch. This is the first key point to disassembling the switch without messing it up. The pic to the left shows that button still in place, as I start loosening the 4 screws holding the top of the switch on. Before you start removing the last screw, remove the WDO LOCK button by pulling straight up.

Here is the WDO LOCK button removed, and most of the screws almost out.

Hold onto the base of the switch, and lift the top straight up and off carefully. There are some pieces that may drop out if you don't hold the switch base horizontally while taking off the top.

I've pictured the top for an important reason. The circled area shows the driver's side switch bar, that connects with the framework that moves the contacts for the window (the solenoid is inside this framework). The tip of this bar has a spring inside it. If the end of the bar comes off and the spring comes out, your switch won't return to center after moving the window up/down.

See all that black stuff? Any 1G driver's switch, unless replaced with a new one, will look like that. It's from the current arcing when the contacts are almost touching or just coming apart.

Make note of which direction the rocker contacts are positioned for the passenger switch, so you can put them back the same way when you reassemble the switch. They are not fastened to the rest of the switch, so if you tilt it too far, they will fall out.

Note the WDO LOCK switch is on the right side of the pic here. If you pull the top of the main switch off without removing the WDO LOCK button first, you can pull the WDO LOCK switch out of the main housing. If that happens, you'd better hope you catch the tiny spring in there, or you'll be getting another PW switch.

Here is the WDO LOCK switch still in the main PW switch. Note the large copper bars running to it. It basically cuts the power to the window switches. If you pull it out of the main switch and lose the small spring in it, it won't lock in the off position.

Here is the "front" side of the WDO LOCK switch after pulling it out of the main switch. DO NOT REMOVE IT FROM THE MAIN SWITCH! I only removed it to show you how to put it back together if it comes out while you are working on the switch.

Note the brass contact that completes the circuit across the copper bars in the main switch housing.

The brass contacts have 2 tiny little springs behind them. If either of these come out, forget it, go find another switch.

Here is the "back" side of the WDO LOCK switch. This is the spring that actually holds the WDO LOCK switch in the up or down position. The long end of the spring hooks into a heart-shaped track in the center of the switch, the short end hooks into the corner of the black frame of the switch. You must hold this spring in place as you push the WDO LOCK switch into the main switch, or it will most likely fly off.

Another view of the "back" side of the WDO LOCK switch. You must hold this spring in place as you push the WDO LOCK switch into the main switch, or it will most likely fly off.

Here's a closeup of the passenger switch contacts. Take a very small, fine file, or fine sandpaper, and clean all 4 contacts. In some cases, they may be badly pitted and may take a lot of filing/sanding to get smooth. You might want to consider coating them with dielectric grease after you're done, to minimize arcing/pitting/corrosion.

Since both sides of the driver's switch are just mirror images of each other essentially, I may bounce back and forth for pics. Here is the contacts/solenoid in the centered/rest position.

Here is the contacts/solenoid in the activated position.

Here are the 3 parts we need to worry about:

• 1 - the "outer terminal"
• 2 - the "middle terminal"
• 3 - the "inner terminal"

Here you can see some pitting on the contact point of the "outer terminal" that will require a decent amount of filing to get rid of. The mating contact on the "middle terminal" will look just as bad or worse.

Here you can see some pitting on the contact point of the "inner terminal" that will require a decent amount of filing to get rid of. The mating contact on the "middle terminal" will look just as bad or worse.

No pic for this yet, as I can't find the file I normally use. The best file for working on these contacts is a metal nailfile (yes, for fingernails) that you pick up at any drugstore or grocery store. You want the metal nailfile because it doesn't leave grit behind and lasts a long time.

What I do is place the file between the "outer terminal" and "middle terminal", press all 3 together lightly, and move the file back and forth. This will file both contact faces at the same time and get them as parallel as possible. Then I do the same for the "middle terminal" and "inner terminal".