I modded my 2 month old Archer downpipe - I cut off the back half, and had 3" SS tube welded on. The Archer DP uses a 3" flex section, with stepdowns at each end, so I just cut it at the step, and had a local welder TIG weld the SS pipe, flange, and bracket on. This guy does CLEAN work.

Here is the completed DP, courtesy of Eddie Irlanda, Applied Welding Technology, 2520 Wynadotte Ste D, Mountain View, CA 94043, 650-969-2460.

Here is the modded Archer DP, next to the stocker - just a little bigger ;-)

Luckily, I had access to a MIG welder (thanks Todd!), and had bought some "scrap" mandrel bends from a local tube shop. I bought a bunch of 3" header flanges, to flange the entire exhaust (downpipe, catcon, testpipe, catback, and muffler). I hacked the stock mounts off of the stock system for a cleaner mounting system using stock bolts. Here I am working on installing the front 2 mounts, after welding the flange to a piece of straight pipe about 5-6 feet long, and bolting it to the testpipe I had built.

The front 2 mounts welded on.

Side view of the front 2 mounts - see how well the pipe parallels the driveshaft.

I welded a mandrel bend onto the straight pipe at an angle - not the best way to do it, but this system MAY be a prototype for a later system I MAY sell, so I can have that angle replaced with a slight mandrel bend then.

Here I am figuring out what angle to cut from each mandrel bend I had, to meld them together as smoothly as possible.

Here are the 2 bends tack welded together on the car.

Here I am out from under the car, massaging the 2 pieces together for a smooth transition.

Here is the completed catback pipe, with all mounts and flanges welded on. MESSY welds, but not bad for the second attempt at MIG welding in 10 years. This system does NOT cross under the driveshaft. It parallels the driveshaft all the way back, and then crosses over BEHIND the rear differential. Not the BEST for flow, but it will make working on my car easier, and should flow well enough.

Here is my finished pipe next to the Dynomax 2.25" system I had on it. While mine has more severe bends at the end, it has less bends overall, and should still definitely outflow the 2.25" system.

Here is the Dynomax SuperTurbo 3" muffler (part #17792, 16" body), with stock mounts and flanges welded on. I cut off about 2" from each outlet, and had to shorten the stock mounts a LOT to get it to fit in there, as it is a lot bigger. I flanged both ends so that if I get a different muffler for the track, I don't have to make another tip.

Here is another look at the muffler.

Here is another look at the muffler. Closeup of what is left of the rear muffler mount.

Here it is bolted up to the car - note that nasty exhaust stain on the muffler from the Dynomax 2.25" system - the tips don't come out far enough on that system.

Here it is with a plain 3" pipe welded on to get me home.

A different view of the tip, to show the angle needed to get it out from under the bumper, and to show how far I stuck it out to avoid another stained bumper.

This is the muffler after I had Eddie help me weld up a tip. I got a 4" piece of SS pipe, beat the heck out of it to oval it, and then chopped it up a LOT to fit it down to the 3" pipe outlet. Then Eddie welded it, and I polished it. Then I painted most of the tip and the entire muffler with BBQ paint to make for a cleaner look on the car.