1G Rear Hatch Strut Replacement

Has the rear hatch hit you in the head too many times? FIX IT!

A common problem with the 1G DSM cars is the rear hatch strut. Over time, it starts to wear out. The hatch becomes harder to lift, and won't stay up. This situation becomes worse when it gets cold outside.

This is easily fixed by replacing the 2 struts that hold the hatch up. This is an easy fix, and can be done with one person in about an hour.

Tools Needed:

10 mm open end wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Another screwdriver (optional)
T-40 Torx Bit ($4-$5 from Sears or local auto supply house)
A board, or something to hold the hatch up while working (it's heavy!)
2 Replacement struts

Kragen sells SteadyLift for $25 each with a lifetime warrenty. This is a direct bolt-on replacement. Part #C 072-603 (or ask for it by car year/model).

Replacement steps:

Open the hatch and support it open using the board.

Using the Torx bit, remove the top end of the strut (connected to the hatch).

Make sure the board holding the hatch up is secure!

Unscrew the stop for the carpet hatch cover located just under where the lower end of the strut attaches to the car.

The plastic around where the strut connects to the body of the car is slightly flexible. Pull the plastic in this area back and wedge the 2 screwdrivers in on either side of the strut.

When removing the strut from the body after unbolting it, you might have to bend the circled tab a little in order to slip the strut out of the plastic trim.

I'm lazy - I bend the tab out of the way, then push the plastic way out of the way for plenty of access to the 2 mounting bolts.

Carefully unscrew these 2 bolts (10mm). Try not to drop them - they will fall behind the trim.

If they do fall, unscrew the bottom of the trim from the car, and hope you can find the screw!

Remove the old strut.

Put the new strut in.

Put the 2 bolts back in.

Put the Torx screw back in (you might have to lift the hatch with one hand and put the screw back in with the other.)

Put the cover support back on.

Repeat the process for the other side.

This replacement was done on a 1991 Eagle Talon AWD. When I asked about what had to be done, I had a bunch of replies. Below are some things that I was told might be necessary that I did NOT have to do.

You do NOT have to remove all the plastic panels from the hatch area. Simply bend back the plastic around the lower strut area.
Some replacement struts do not include the mounting bracket, requiring you to drill out a rivet on the old strut. An example of this is the "Mighty Lift" struts. These will require removing the bracket from the old strut and attaching it to the new one.

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Last modified: Apr 15, 2000
Originally submitted by Stephen Ungar
Copyright 1997-2000, Tom Stangl

VFAQ.COM, http://www.vfaq.com
talonts

	Open the hatch and support it open using the board. Using the Torx bit, remove the top end of the strut (connected to the hatch). Make sure the board holding the hatch up is secure! Unscrew the stop for the carpet hatch cover located just under where the lower end of the strut attaches to the car.

	The plastic around where the strut connects to the body of the car is slightly flexible. Pull the plastic in this area back and wedge the 2 screwdrivers in on either side of the strut.

	When removing the strut from the body after unbolting it, you might have to bend the circled tab a little in order to slip the strut out of the plastic trim.

	I'm lazy - I bend the tab out of the way, then push the plastic way out of the way for plenty of access to the 2 mounting bolts. Carefully unscrew these 2 bolts (10mm). Try not to drop them - they will fall behind the trim. If they do fall, unscrew the bottom of the trim from the car, and hope you can find the screw!

	Remove the old strut. Put the new strut in. Put the 2 bolts back in. Put the Torx screw back in (you might have to lift the hatch with one hand and put the screw back in with the other.) Put the cover support back on. Repeat the process for the other side.