The stock head bolts are OK on DSMs for a daily driver, but if you plan on running high boost, or have your engine apart for any reason, I highly recommend installing ARP head studs (I recommend using ARP rod bolts and ARP main studs too if you are doing a total engine rebuild). This is extremely important on late 92-up 7bolt blocks, as they use stretch-to-torque bolts, that must be torqued to a set value, then turned further to set the correct clamping pressure on the head. In doing so, the bolts stretch a bit. If the bolts are to be reused, you must measure them to make sure they have not stretched too far in a static state (not under any torque stress), or they will not hold clamping pressure, and you may quickly blow the head gasket. Using ARP head studs avoids this problem, and also lets you torque the nuts on the studs to a higher value than the stock head bolts (75 ft-lbs on 6bolt blocks, producing a higher clamping value, allowing safer higher boost levels (I currently torque mine to 80 ft-lbs, but may run higher) on the stock head gasket. Note also that stock head bolts run about $80 per set, and the ARP head stud cost is similar, so if you have to replace the stock head bolts, you might as well get the ARP studs.

You need to modify the front engine mount a tiny bit in order to use the ARP head studs, because it has a "hood" that wraps around the far driver's side exhaust manifold stud. You need to trim off the hood in order for the head to drop down on the studs and actually meet with the block. The mods are covered here, installation of head studs will be added soon.

Not covered here is removing the mount - I'm assuming you can handle that if you already have the head off of the car.

	Here you see how the hood wraps over the top of the far driver's exhaust manifold stud.
	Here is the engine mount off of the car, with the hood circled.
	Another view of the mount.
	Another view with the cut line highlighted.
	Another view with the cut line highlighted.
	Cutting it off with a Dremel and cutoff disc. You can also grind it off with a die grinder and cutting/grinding bit, or an angle grinder.
	The mount and the hood cut off. Now the head can slide down on the studs and actually make contact with the block squarely.