This is your basic starting point. Note that I did NOT have to remove the rear floor support, only the pressboard piece and the spare tire. The fuel pump is already unplugged.

This is with the fuel pump cover removed completely - note I pulled the wire out of the cover. It makes it a LOT easier to work with. BTW, the butyl gunk holding the cover down can hold it down TOO well, and you may bend the cover getting it off. I didn't have that problem, but others have. It also depends on how warm it is when you are removing it - it comes off easy in summer, MUCH harder in winter.

The important parts?
• The blue piece is the check valve, you will need to bend the bracket towards the electrical connections in order to pull the valve off. Then remove one hose end and push the valve out of the way.
• The fuel fitting you will grow to hate is on the right of the hole.
• You will see 3 little rubber "knobs" - these are part of the gasket, and help hold it on the pump cap.

This is your closeup of the &(*#$ fuel line fitting. You will grow to hate this thing. Note how mine is a little chewed up. I tried every which way of getting that fitting loose, even using the right 14mm wrench, and it would not come loose. I finally had to grab it with some large vicegrips, and strain a few muscles to crack it loose. Then I took a Dremel to the fitting, and smoothed it out - now it works with the 14mm flare wrench again.

Don't believe me and the many others on the Digest that say that fitting is hard to crack loose? Here are 2 more pump fittings, one that came off relatively easily, and one that had to be nearly destroyed to get it off. Note that the "easy" one was still slightly mangled.

If you still want to attempt to get this fitting loose, putting a wedge under the flare wrench will help a lot (courtesy Tim Fisher). Otherwise, read on...

(Addendum to the above - others have found it easier to disconnect the fuel line farther forward near the front of the tank. There is a fitting there that seems to be easier to crack loose for most people. However, it requires getting under the car. My way, the fitting is much harder to crack open, but can be removed easily in the future from above the car. It's up to you. If you DO undo the front fitting, you can then undo the rear fitting once the pump is out, so in the future you can use the rear fitting.

NOTE that 2nd gen cars should DEFINITELY use the forward fitting, as the rear "fitting" may not actually be a fitting.)

This is your &(*#$ fuel line fitting again. Once I got it loose, I took off all six pump retaining nuts (one was hidden under the check valve and its' rubber hose), and started to lift out the pump. Hm, some resistance, it's not coming out. Lets do the intelligent thing, and check it out. Hm, feels like a gasket. HEY!, so that's what those rubber knobs were for! The gasket tends to stick to the tank, and the knobs hold it on the cap. Gently dislodge the gasket from the tank, and wiggle the pump assembly in many different directions to remove it. You'll figure out which directions when you get to this point.

IT'S OUTTA THERE! If you are enterprising, you will stuff paper towels in the tank opening, and clean the gasket surface. I was tired and pissed, I didn't. DO make sure to stuff some paper towels in there to keep stuff out until you put the pump back.

Here is the pump, ready to work on.

Note a few things:
• The rubber gasket is in one piece, because I was careful.
• That bottom Philips screw will most likely not come loose using a screwdriver. Grab it with pliers or vicegrips to crack it loose first.
• The rubber insulator will require a tiny bit of trimming to fit the new pump properly. Do it, don't be lazy.
• The clip that holds the filter on is a pain to remove, but rock it off bit by bit, DON'T just yank it, it will break, and you will be SOL.
• Obviously, don't bend the float pickup rod ;-)

Here is the pump closeup.

Removal/replacement:
• Remove that bottom Philips screw, and slide off the bottom bracket.
• Remove the rubber insulator and fuel filter.
• Slide the positive terminal boot up, and remove both terminal nuts.
• Pull the pump straight down, and watch for little parts.
• Transfer all parts to new pump, and reverse removal.
• You may want to replace the fuel filter at this point - mine was completely clean, so I didn't, but if your's is at all dirty, replace it.
• NOTE:Do NOT forget to pull the O-ring out of the fuel line if it does not come out, and transfer it to the pump! I forgot to and had a nasty airlock, forcing me to prime the pump for 30 seconds or more every time I wanted to start the car. Also make sure to lube the O-ring to get it back into the fuel line (spit DOES work fine).
• Be careful when putting the pump up into the fuel feed line - the rubber O-ring should be lubed with some grease, oil, or spit (hey, it works) so that the O-ring slips easily into the feed line. If it does not, the O-ring can kink or tear, and the car will be hard to start after sitting a few minutes, as the kinked/torn O-ring will allow the fuel to bleed out of the feed lines. The symptom will be that the car will take several seconds to start after sitting more than a minute or 2, but starts right up if you turn it off and then immediately start it back up.
• Use a flashlight to check the inside of the tank for junk - mine was clean, others' have not been.

A note from Gino Valic in the Talon Digest:
"I recently discovered when installing my Nippondenso pump in a 91 gsx that the O-ring needed for the pump is the same one used in the Walbro installation kit. I wound up using the O-ring, retaining cap, and strainer clip for my pump installation. I have found the part # for this O-ring which anyone should be able to find in Autozone or PepBoys autoparts store. The O-ring is made by Borg Warner and the part # is 274571 Fuel injection seal. The list price is $4.25 and it cost me $1.98. The kit include two O-rings so if you screw one up, you have an extra."