In case you have never seen a flare fitting wrench, this is what one looks like. You will need a 14mm and 19mm (can substitute 3/4") for this job.

First, make sure you are below 3/4 tank, preferably 1/2 tank, or you may have a LOT of fuel everywhere when you open up the tank. Next, pull the rear seat bottom. Here is a shot of me pulling the seat release. NOTE that unlike the first gens, that have the latch on the seat, the 2Gs have the latch on the car. So pull the latches, and then lift up on the seat to remove it.

Here is the rear seat area. 2G AWDs only have one fuelpump cover, as the sender unit is built into the pump assembly, unlike FWDs, which have a separate pump assembly and sender unit.

Here is a closeup of the cover we'll be removing. You need to remove the four screws, located at each corner of the grey cover, as well as the one screw holding down the plastic piece for the wiring. Once these 5 screws have been removed, gently lift the cover up about an inch or two, and then disconnect the white plug (you can see a picture of the plug below). It's simply a little push tab facing towards the front of the car.

Here is a picture of the cover removed and pushed out of the way. Here you can see that the assembly is quite different than the FWD one. The rubber line on the top left is the return line, the rubber line to the right is the suction line for the other half of the tank, the rubber line on the bottom left is the feed line to the fuel rail (the big metal thing is the top fuel line fitting). Do NOT bother trying to remove it here, you risk breaking the assembly. The fittings on this end of the feed line do not have swivel fittings. If you try to spin it loose here, you will twist the line and possibly tear it (it has happened to people). Instead, continue reading - we're going to attack it from the bottom.

Now you should open your gas cap and try to start the car a few times to try to get as much fuel out of the line as possible. Here is a picture with the ventline removed. Yes, you will spill quite a bit of fuel when you disconnect it. Enjoy the smell :)

Now we need to remove that plastic ring that keeps the assembly in place. The service manual calls for the use of a special tool to remove this ring, but it's certainly not needed. As you can see, a flathead screwdriver and a hammer will do the trick just fine. You want to unscrew the plastic ring by tapping on the little lips on the top, slowly but surely. I think it took about three complete rotations or so to get it off, so it'll take a few minutes.

Here is a closeup of where to tap.

Next remove the return line, as shown here.

Now for the fun part! Jack up the car using the little notch in the rail in front of the rear passenger side tire. This will give you plenty of access to get to the bottom fitting. You'll be able to find it easily - you can even just follow it up to the fuel pump if in doubt. Now is a good time to put some sort of large container (a drain pan would work well) to catch the fuel that will leak out). The trick to removing the fitting is to first put the 19mm flare nut wrench on the big nut, and then slide the 14mm flare nut wrench on the little one. You're going to be basically holding the 19mm one in place and concentrating your efforts on unscrewing the small nut from the big one. You can see that behind the 14mm nut the hardline is threaded, so that's how it'll unscrew.

It'll take quite a bit of effort, but with the flare nut wrenches, chances are 99% certain that you won't strip the nuts. Once you break it loose, fuel *will* start coming out of the line and down your arm, just to add to the fun. Just keep on working on that 14mm until it's completely free from the larger one. Now get back into the car.

Now comes the scary part - get some tin snips, and cut the rear seat floor above the feed line (don't worry, it isn't structural, it won't hurt anything, and will make your job a LOT easier). Cut in about 1 1/2". [NOTE: Picture from FWD VFAQ, you'll still have the fitment ring on, it's impossible to get off completely yet, you'll just have loosened it all the way.] Note that you don't have to cut the sheetmetal (I haven't on several installs), but it will make the job a lot easier, as you will have to kink the rubber line pretty tightly if you don't cut it.

Now wiggle the entire assembly up and out of the car, being sure to not let the rubber line rub against the cut you just made, as it could tear it. Also be sure to pull the pump out VERY carefully, as the float is in there kind of strangely, and you want to make sure you don't bend it.

Here is a picture showing the proper technique to avoid tearing the line.

Here is the FWD pump assembly (left) next to an AWD assembly (right). Note that the AWD assembly includes the sender unit, while the FWD does not. Note also that the FWD assembly bolts down like the 1G AWD assembly.

Here is a closeup of the AWD assembly.

Here is the bottom bracket that holds the pump in the assembly. Grab that screw with a pliers or visegrips, and crack it loose FIRST, then loosen with a Philips screwdriver, or you may strip the screw. Pull the bottom bracket off.

Disconnect the electrical plug for the pump on the assembly (2G FWD assembly shown).

Lift straight up on the pump while twisting slightly. DO NOT pull to either side, or you may end up with a pump that looks like the bottom one - NOT GOOD.

Here is the pump out of the assembly. The pink lines separate the various sealing parts that you MUST NOT lose, you will need one of them on the new pump, and will want to save the others with the stock pump. For lack of better terms, the white (left) piece is the "cap", the middle piece is the O-ring, and the black (right) piece is the "spacer". Very carefully rock the cap off (carefully, you do NOT want to crack it), then pull the O-ring and spacer off. Transfer the spacer to the new pump, keep the old O-ring and cap with the stock pump. Use the new O-ring and cap that comes with the new pump.

This is the bottom view of the stock pump. Carefully rock that metal clip off of the post to remove the filter to make storing the stock pump easier (the Walbro kit comes with the filter.). Use the new clip to secure the new filter to the new pump.

Using a nutdriver to push the metal clip onto the new pump - this works better than using a pliers, but if you don't have a nutdriver, just push it down with a socket, or a pair of pliers with the jaws slightly open.

The new pump ready to go back in the assembly.

At this point, all you have to do is put the new pump in the pump assembly, drop the pump assembly into the tank (make sure the large gasket on the opening hasn't been knocked loose, and wiggle the pump assembly down into place so you don't tweak the gasket and cause a leak), screw the locking ring down (a tip - screw the locking ring on counterclockwise lightly until you feel it drop onto the threads, make sure it is level with the tank surface, and if so, then start screwing it down clockwise. If you don't do this, you may crossthread it, leading to possible leaks when the tank is full), push the sheetmetal back in place (if you cut it), reattach all the lines and wiring plug, bolt on the floor cover, put the seat back in, and GO.

Be careful when putting the pump up into the fuel feed line - the rubber O-ring should be lubed with some grease, oil, or spit (hey, it works) so that the O-ring slips easily into the feed line. If it does not, the O-ring can kink or tear, and the car will be hard to start after sitting a few minutes, as the kinked/torn O-ring will allow the fuel to bleed out of the feed lines. The symptom will be that the car will take several seconds to start after sitting more than a minute or 2, but starts right up if you turn it off and then immediately start it back up.

A graph comparing the flow of the stock pump to the Walbro DSM pumps is here.

A note from Gino Valic in the Talon Digest:
"I recently discovered when installing my Nippondenso pump in a 91 gsx that the O-ring needed for the pump is the same one used in the Walbro installation kit. I wound up using the O-ring, retaining cap, and strainer clip for my pump installation. I have found the part # for this O-ring which anyone should be able to find in Autozone or PepBoys autoparts store. The O-ring is made by Borg Warner and the part # is 274571 Fuel injection seal. The list price is $4.25 and it cost me $1.98. The kit include two O-rings so if you screw one up, you have an extra."