Remove the shifter knob - simply unscrew it counterclockwise. It might be on there pretty tight, though, so you might need to give it a quick, hard twist to break it loose.

Remove the console shifter screw trim panel (ribbed panel between the shifter panel and stereo).

Remove the console shifter panel screws, front and rear.

Remove the console shifter panel - open the console lid, lift the shifter panel up and off the shifter, and either move it to either side of the console, or remove the driver's side carpeted console side panel, unplug the lighter harness, and completely remove the shifter panel from the console.

Remove the cotter pins from the shifter arms (circled), and slip the cable ends off of the shifter arms.

Center the shifter front to rear and side to side - the spring on the shifter should center it side to side. For front to back, simply check the distance between the rubber stop in the shifter cage, and make the spacing between the stop and the shifter cage equal front and back.

The shifter was out of the car for a rebuild, the circled area is where the stop is. It is on the other side of the shifter arm, and has a rubber sleeve on it. When you move it front to back, the rubber sleeve contacts the shifter arm cage, limiting the shifter arm movement. You want the front and back spacing between the shifter arm stop and shifter cage to be equal.

While holding the shifter centered, check to see if the cables will easily slip back over the shifter arm pins. If not, crack the jamnuts (circled) loose on the cables.

To crack the jamnuts loose, put a 10mm (12mm?) boxend wrench on the large hex adjuster collar, and use another boxend wrench on each jamnut - note that one will loosen counterclockwise, the other will loosen clockwise. Spin the jamnuts well away from the adjuster collars, and spin the adjuster collars to change the cable lengths until the holes in the cable ends are lined up with the shifter arm pins and the cables slip easily over the pins. Once you have the cables adjusted right, slip them onto the shifter arm pins, hold the adjuster collars with an openend wrench, and tighten the jamnuts against them. Make sure you don't rotate the adjuster collars or cable ends while tightening the jamnuts, or you might have troubles with the cables binding - you want to make sure the plastic ball and socket joints in the shifter cable ends are not twisted, that the cable end is flat with respect to the shifter arms (note that one end is twisted here - it was twisted from the factory, as soon as I pulled the cable end off of the shifter, it rotated).

Reverse the removal instructions to put it all back together.

One major improvement to shifter feel is swapping out the "bat handle" 1G shifter knob for a shorter one. You can either use an aftermarket knob, or a 2G knob (hey, it looks more factory).

This is a look at the different sizes of the stock shifter knobs. The monster one is a first gen, the tiny one is a second gen. Often swapping shifter knobs is all that is needed to shorten the throw a good bit. If it doesn't shorten it enough for you, you can get a GVR4 shortshifter arm from Mofugas Motorsports. The MM shifter arm will bolt directly into 91-94s, but the shifter arm pivot bolt shank diameter on 90s is about twice the diameter of 91-94s, so some custom modification is required to get it to work. The MM arm is a nice piece, it shortens the top half of the shifter arm and lengthens the bottom half, shortening the throw a LOT without moving the cables too far, which can overextend the shift forks in the tranny, which is not good.