This is a basic layout of a tool to make for replacing the balance belt. During the balance belt replacement, you have to break the crank sprocket bolt free on 6bolt blocks. If you have airtools, you are set. If not, it takes some ingenuity to loosen and tighten the bolt.

The measurements are guidelines ONLY, as your car may vary a little. The NEW tool requires no bends, it simply needs to be long enough to rest on the ground or the frame of the car, as a lever to keep the pulley from rotating.

Basically, you pull the crank pulley off the crank sprocket (held on by 4 small bolts), and use it as a pattern for the bottom 2 bolt holes and hub notch, and then make sure the hub notch is cut/ground to match the hub on the crank sprocket. A die grinder or bench grinder works best for this - I drilled out as much of the notch as possible, and then ground out the rest.

Here is a pic of the crank sprocket with measurements that might help you build the tool ahead of time. The key measurements are the bolt spacing of roughly 1 9/16", the bolt hole size of 5/16" - 3/8" (to allow for slight measurement differences - slop), the distance of the bolt hole centerline from the centerline of the crank sprocket, 3/4", and the radius of the crank sprocket raised section around the bolt/washer, 7/8".

You probably want to lay these lines out on graph paper to make it easier.

1. Draw a line for the crank sprocket centerline
2. Draw a line 3/4" to the left of that line
3. Draw a horizontal line through both lines
4. Draw a horizontal line 25/32" above and below that horizontal line
5. The intersection of lines 2 and 4 are your center points to drill the 5/16" - 3/8" bolt holes
6. Draw a 7/8" radius circle centered at the intersection of lines 1 and 3. This is your arc to cut out of the barstock

Here is a graphic to illustrate the measurements.

1. Draw a line for the crank sprocket centerline
2. Draw a line 3/4" to the left of that line
3. Draw a horizontal line through both lines
4. Draw a horizontal line 25/32" above and below that horizontal line
5. The intersection of lines 2 and 4 are your center points to drill the 5/16" - 3/8" bolt holes
6. Draw a 7/8" radius circle centered at the intersection of lines 1 and 3. This is your arc to cut out of the barstock

• Make the lever long enough to reach the ground or rest against the frame of the car
• The reason this tool is better than the old one is that you can drill the other end for 2 of the studs on the rear hubs, and use it to hold the hub still if you ever have to remove the axle stub nut to remove the axle stub (or remove the axle cup when swapping to a 4bolt rear for 1Gs)
• All 3 holes were drilled about 1/16" larger than the bolts, to allow a little leeway, and everything fit on the first try.