Timing Belt VFAQ Addition 1

To replace the long tool that compresses the tensioner, pull the battery hold-down bolt, grind off the little ears that hold the rubber boot on it, and tap about an extra 2" of threads on it. Works great. You can put the rubber boot back on when putting it back on the battery hold-down bracket, and the new threads will hold it in place.

UPDATE: This tool should only be used once or twice, as the threads you cut with a die are slightly squared off, due to the smaller shank of the bolt. If you use this tool too much, it may seize in the tensioner bracket, which is not good. When you use it, make sure to grease the threads real well to avoid seizing. The factory threads are rolled in order to make them full diameter on the "too small" bolt diameter. If you wish to have a permanent tool, it is best to get some 8mm x 1.25 threaded rod and weld a nut on it, then round the end that presses on the tensioner bracket.

Timing Belt Tensioner Tool

To replace the tool for setting the torque - use your fingers ;-)

The fast way to do this:

• Grab a drill bit around .15" - go buy one exactly that size if possible (we used a .152" we had handy), and no smaller than .15"
• Put that drill bit between the top of the tensioner and the tensioner arm (See Fig 21 above). Compress the tensioner using the battery bolt until it lightly touches the drill bit (can still slide it in and out, but is not rattling loose)
• Grab the tensioner pulley, rotate it up until the belt is getting taut, then pull up on it lightly (remember, the torque on this is only 2-3 ft-lbs). You can also use a 90 degree circlip pliers to rotate the pulley using the holes for the real tool (if you don't know what 90 degree circlip pliers are, then don't worry about it and use your fingers). Then torque the pulley down
• Loosen the battery bolt several turns, but don't remove it. Check the tensioner gap, it should be barely over the drill bit size, if not right on it still. Rotate the engine six times, let sit for about 15min, check the tensioner gap again to make sure it is within spec (.15-.18")

I have set belts this way over half a dozen times, and the only variables are how hard you tighten the tensioner down onto the drill bit (*just touching it, no pressure*) and how hard you pull the pulley tight with your fingers (too hard, and the gap is too small). I've gotten to the point that I can get it perfect on the first try.

Credits

• Pics by:
  • Tom Stangl
• Text by:
  • Tom Stangl
  • Rick Santangelo

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