Part numbers quick link.

This covers your basic turbo/exh man removal, which is needed when swapping the turbo or manifold, or removing either for porting. It pretty much follows the shop manual, although the are some key differences here and there, and I will of course link in real photos instead of just drawings (sooner or later). Torque settings are expressed as "**", so 5-10 ft-lbs would be 5-10**.

The diagrams can be clicked to get a larger version for printing. Some numbers may be links to notes about them at the bottom of the document.

NOTE: I am slowly gathering the Mitsubishi part numbers for each part listed below. If you order any of these, please send me the current part numbers, so I can add them to the table. Please note that part numbers change all the time, so you should check the current part numbers with a dealer. Make sure to describe the part to him, or fax him this printout to look over, in case one of the part numbers below is wrong (they have been before). Many current part numbers courtesy of Tallahassee Mitsubishi, who took the time to print this page out and cross-reference the missing numbers.

NOTE if you just want to remove the exhaust manifold or turbine housing for porting or other reasons, see the Quick Removal Notes.

NOTE that most of the part numbers are for 90-92s, 93-94s may have different numbers, it is best to check with the parts counters. In some cases I have listed all numbers I could get.

Order of removal

1 - Upper heat shield
2 - Radiator
5 - Oil dipstick
6 - Dipstick O-ring
3 - Lower heat shield
4 - Oxygen sensor
7 - MAF hose to turbo inlet
8 - Wastegate feed tubing
9 - Wastegate sense tubing
10 - Lower IC pipe
11 - Turbo air outlet fitting
12 - Turbo air outlet gasket
13 - Power steering pump
14 - Power steering pump bracket
15 - Exhaust manifold nuts
16 - Engine lift bracket
15A - Exhaust manifold studs
17 - Oil feed line top eyebolt
18 - Oil feed line top crush washers
19 - Upper water line hose/clamp
32 - Lower water line fitting
21 - Downpipe nuts and gasket
22 - Turbo/exh man bolts
23 - Exhaust manifold
24 - Exhaust manifold gasket
25 - Turbo ring gasket
26 - Turbo flat gasket
27 - Oil return line
28 - Oil return line gaskets
30 - Lower water line eyebolt
31 - Water line crush washers
29 - Turbo
32 - Lower water line
33 - Water line eyebolt
34 - Water line bolt crush washers
35 - Rear water pipe
36 - Oil feed line bottom eyebolt
37 - Oil feed line washers
38 - Oil feed line
39 - O2 sensor housing
40 - O2 sensor housing gasket
41 - Turbo-to-exhaust manifold stud

If you just want to remove the exhaust manifold or turbine housing for porting or other work, you should definitely remove the Turbo-to-exhaust manifold stud (#41) and replace it with a bolt (#22). It is a good idea to replace this stud with a bolt, as it makes removal of either easier in the future.

In order to remove the stud without disassembling everything, you need to do the following:

• Note it's best to do this with the turbo hot, the bolts will loosen easier. Make sure to use heavy gloves, or grab parts with pliers when necessary. Spray all parts you will be removing with WD40 or PB Blast penetrant.
• Remove 1 - Upper heatshield
• Remove 22 - Turbo stud nut and washer
• Try to grab the top of the turbo stud with a pair of visegrips and break it loose. If this works, you are done, and can twist out the stud and replace it with a bolt. If you can't get it out at this point, continue with the next steps.
• Remove 22 - Turbo bolts and washers
• Remove the bolt holding the downpipe to the block (not numbered on table above, but shown next to #21)
• Push down on the turbo assembly until you can remove the ring gasket (#25) from between the turbo and exhaust manifold. It might be easier to wedge the ring gasket between the turbo and exhaust manifold as far away from the turbo stud as possible, in order to leave space to work on the stud.
• Grab the base of the turbo stud with visegrips and crack it loose. Once it is loose, remove the ring gasket entirely if you had it wedged in there for space to work, let the turbo move back up against the exhaust manifold, grab the top of the stud with the visegrips, and spin it out.

Once you have replaced the stud with a bolt, you can now remove the exhaust manifold by:

• Removing the upper heatshield
• Removing the nine nuts holding the exhman to the head
• Removing the turbo-exhman bolts
• Lifting out the exhman.

Once the stud is replaced with a bolt, you can remove the turbine housing only by:

• Removing the lower heatshield
• Unbolting the downpipe from the block and O2 housing
• Pushing the downpipe off to the side
• Removing the wastegate actuator arm from the turbine housing
• Disconnecting the O2 sensor wire from near the thermostat housing and removing it from the clips on the upper heatshield
• Removing the turbo-exhman bolts
• Removing the clamp holding the turbine housing to the rest of the turbo
• Pulling the turbine and O2 housings towards the driver's side until they clear the turbine wheel, and lowering them out of the car.

1 - ALREADY doing it out of order from the shop manual.

2 - Radiator - DO yourself a favor, and PULL THE WHOLE RADIATOR. It only takes an extra 5 minutes, and will save you MUCH more time than that later. It is just as easy to pull the radiator as to pull the AC fan off the radiator.

4 - O2 sensor - IF you can find the special O2 sensor socket that does NOT have a slot in it, but allows the wiring plug to come out the top, GET IT. If not, try to use a impact wrench to break it free. As a final choice, do what I did - oil the threads inside and out once the O2 sensor housing has been removed from the turbo (step 39), put a 7/8" box-end wrench on the sensor, and smack the wrench with a hammer repeatedly. USE the oil, or it will never come loose, and may strip the threads. Shop manual drawing is here.

15A - Exhaust manifold studs - the center bottom stud goes into an oil return passage in the head, make sure to use RTV on the threads of the stud when installing it to eliminate oil seepage. Just be ready for many of the other exhman studs to be broken or break when trying to remove the exhaust manifold. While you are replacing all of the broken ones, you should inspect the old exhaust manifold for external cracks (ignore any internal ones). If it is cracked externally, you might as well buy a new 2G exhaust manifold from Conicelli Mits (or your local discount dealer) for only $125-150, they are made of better metal than 1G exhaust manifolds. If upgrading to a 2G manifold on a 90-92, you can either drill/tap the outer 2 holes in the head for 10mm studs like the 93-up use, or just use the stock 90-92 8mm studs, either will work fine. I prefer to use 10mm outer studs to lessen the chance of warpage. Don't be surprised if some of the exhaust manifold studs strip the threads out of the head when removing them. It is best to remove them with the engine still hot (though that's hard to do, as you'll burn yourself repeatedly when getting the exhman out of the way). If any threads strip, HeliCoil/NutSert the holes in the head.

20/30/32 - Water pipe - DON'T remove this!!! Leave it attached to the block, and pull the turbo/manifold up and out of it. You can bend the line down and forward a bit to lift the turbo out. You won't have to use a pipe wrench fitting to undo it at the block if you leave the pipe in place. If you plan on pulling it, pull it AFTER the turbo is out, and put it back before you put the turbo back (but note the orientation of the pipe before removing it, put it ALMOST all the way tight into the block, then install the turbo, and tighten the block fitting).

21 - Downpipe gasket - If you port the O2 housing for a 2.5" downpipe, try a 2.5" gasket for best flow. A good one to get is a catalytic converter gasket for 75-83 Ford 4, 6, or V8 engines. The stud holes just need to be slotted a little. There is also a Dodge carb gasket that will fit, but it is not made for the heat.

22 - Turbo/exh man bolts - If you just want to remove the exhaust manifold or turbine housing for porting or other work, you should definitely remove the Turbo-to-exhaust manifold stud (#41) and replace it with a bolt (#22). It is a good idea to replace this stud with a bolt, as it makes removal of either easier in the future. If you get the MD132933 washers, make sure to get 2 per bolt, 8 total, as they are the 2G style, and are cupped to put pressure on the bolt and keep it from loosening. Install the washers with the dot facing the manifold for the bottom one, and the dot facing the bolt head for the top one (the dots go on the "outside", so the washers make a slight oval shape that is compressed when you tighten the bolt).

23 - Exhaust manifold - When replacing the exhaust manifold with a 2G or Evo3 exhman, you need to grind the driver's lower edge of the flange a little bit to fit inside the "hood" on the engine mount. If upgrading to a 2G or Evo3 exhman on a 90-92, you can either drill/tap the outer 2 holes in the head for 10mm studs like the 93-up use, or just use the stock 90-92 8mm studs, either will work fine. I prefer to use 10mm outer studs to lessen the chance of warpage.

27 - Oil return line - If you are just replacing the turbo, and don't want to drain the oil, LEAVE THIS HOSE on the oilpan. Only disconnect it at the turbo, and you won't have to drain the oil.

41 - Turbo/exh man stud - NOTE that you should replace the turbo-exhaust manifold stud with a bolt so that you don't have to pull the turbo to remove the exhaust manifold in the future (you want to avoid pulling it unless you have broken exhaust manifold studs, as they often break when pulling the exhaust manifold). Just undo the nut on the stud, spray penetrant all over the stud so it works its' way to the bottom threads, let it sit for an hour or more (heck, if you are really worried, it is best to remove the nut and spray down the stud daily for several days before doing the turbo swap), then grab it with a Vicegrips and twist it loose. If you are trying to do this with the exhaust manifold and turbo still on the car, and you can't get a good grip on the stud at the top, then you can push the turbo down from the exhaust manifold an inch or less, grab the base of the stud with the Vicegrips, and break it loose, then let the turbo go back up against the exhaust manifold and grap the top of the stud to finish removing it.

Once the stud is removed, you can pull the exhaust manifold without having to pull the turbo, or pull the turbo without pulling the exhaust manifold. To remove the turbo only, once the turbo is disconnected from all the lines, you will have to push it down an inch or two in order to pull the ring gasket from between the turbo and exhaust manifold (this is assuming you haven't ported the turbo and exhaust manifold and permanently removed the ring gasket) - this will bend the lower water line a bit, but it should bend back into place when you reinstall the turbo.