The following VFAQ has disappeared from the original site, so I have pulled down a copy from the WaybackMachine.

Many times not all graphics are stored by the WaybackMachine, so if there are graphics missing from the following VFAQ, please don't email me about them (unless you are emailing me to tell me you have a copy of the missing graphic you can send me).

If you know the original author of this VFAQ, and have their contact info, please have them email me if they have any missing info to add, have the VFAQ at another site I could not find, or wish to have it removed from my site.


This VFAQ used to be located at http://myzero.com/electrical/p-window.html



Power Window Mod

Brad's Note

This modification is from Mike Caroll (aka TurboMike) and ONLY for 2nd generation DSMs. This is his procedure, so any comments or concerns with it should be directed toward him. He does say this was done on a '95 Talon AWD, so check before doing this on a '96+.

Stock Condition

When the key is taken out of the "on" position the power windows stop working after 30 seconds until key is turned back to "on".
 

Modification

Power windows always work.
 

Theory/Background

The ECU controls the power window relay.  It grounds the relay, and the windows work.  30 seconds after the key is removed it removes ground from the relay, killing power to the windows.
The window replay is under the dash mounted on a white plastic tray.  Get under the driver's side dash and look up, you'll see it.  You don't need to remove any panels, but you will have more room if you remove the driver's kick panel (4 bolts).  The tray has 4 relays:
 
Relay Tray
1
2 3
4 5
These Relays are:
  1. not sure
  2. alarm starter relay (auto trannie only)
  3. power window relay
  4. alarm horn relay
  5. alarm starter relay (5-speed)
Note: that some of these relay sockets will be empty, since I don't have a factory alarm I only had the power window relay.
 
Power Window Relay
1 2 3
4
5
The Power Window Relay Pin outs:
  1. 12v [red w/ white stripe]
  2. NC
  3. To ECU [blue w/ yellow stripe]- gets grounded
  4. To windows [blue w/ black stripe]
  5. 12v [red w/ white strip]

Procedure

There are two options here:
You can cut the wires going to the relay behind the tray OR simply stick a piece of wire into the connectors of the relay and plug it back in on the wire.
Quick and dirty option:
Connect wire #4 and #5, bypassing the relay: Cut 4 and 5 and solder together, OR remove the relay and take a 3" piece of wire and stick one end into connector 4 and the other into connector 5 and plug the relay back in on the wires.
Caution: these are load bearing wires, the piece of wire you use will have the current to the windows going through it, use a thick enough wire.
Safer option:
Ground #3, relay can never open: Cut #3 and ground it (screw it to any grounded chassis piece) OR stick a piece of wire into connector #3 and plug the relay into it to hold it in and ground the other end.  Only load on the wire is to the relay, use any size.

Precautions

Your windows will now work ALWAYS, when the car is not running, or without the key even in it.  If you leave your windows cracked or halfway open, someone can reach in and lower your windows.  A small child or even a dog can now hit the switch and lower the window.

PS: the passenger window lock button still functions

This document can be reprinted for personal use or reference for your mechanic(s) with no prior permission needed. It can be linked to directly, as long as you have a link to the main page of http://www.myzero.com, though linking to the main page instead is preferred. This document can NOT be reprinted for profit/resale/redistribution of ANY type without expressed WRITTEN permission from me in advance. Bulk copying of this document onto your web site without prior permission will not be tolerated, link to it instead.

Copyright 1999, Brad Bauer