PaceSetter Header Install on 1G NT DOHC
by Jason Convry
First let me start off by saying that like most other Pacesetter products, Pacesetter headers suck. The products they offer should only be used if you a) can't afford quality parts, or b) they are the only brand that makes the part you need for your car. I chose the Pacesetter headers because they were under $150, and were the only ones I could find that fit the NT 4G63. I wasn't expecting much, but I have to admit that I'm somewhat impressed. The installation was a cinch and they haven't cracked yet! (Knock on wood)
Here is a picture of my car a few days after I bought her. The only problem was the cracked stock exhaust manifold (pics later). After extensive research, I decided to buy the cheap Pacesetter headers since I'll be graduating soon and probably won't have the car for very long.
Ok, on to the install. Here's a list of the items you're going to need:
- jackstands
- jack
- wrenches, socket set, the usual
- some extremely good penetrating spray
- torque wrench
Here's the stuff I used. You can get it at most auto stores. This stuff is amazing. I had no problems breaking all the bolts loose.
First thing's first: put the car on jackstands. Its doesn't need to be extremely high, just enough to fit under comfortably.
Next, remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. There are 3 bolts holding it on, represented by the purple circles in the following picture:
Soak all of the manifold studs with the penetrating spray. I believe there are 12 of them. Also, spray the 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the catalytic converter, under the car. (See picture below)
Give the penetrating oil some time to work. If you see a lot of rust (especially at the cat) keep applying the spray every couple of minutes.
After the penetrating oil does its job, loosen all of the bolts you sprayed. You may have to also remove the exhaust manifold from the downpipe. I forget if I did or not, but if you do, just use the spray again. Something I had to do was remove the power steering pulley. (At least I think that's what it was :-)...) It was pretty simple. Just remove the little heat shield, loosen the bolt that holds it on, slip the belt off and put everything out of the way. I think there was a wire attached to it too you have to remove. Sorry I don't have many details, but it wasn't that difficult. Just remember to reattach it after you're done! ;-)
Remove the old exhaust manifold and downpipe and throw it aside. Once everything is off, it should look something like this:
Make sure all four exhaust ports are clean and free of gasket material from the old gasket. You can use gasket remover if need be.
Now it's time to attach the headers. The Pacesetter headers replace everything from the engine to the cat. Follow the instructions provided with the headers to install the gaskets correctly. Loosely attach the headers to the engine. Tighten the bolts gradually in a criss-cross pattern to the torque specs supplied in the instructions. If you can't find the torque specs, I believe it's 8 lbs for each stud. Follow the supplied instructions on attaching the headers to the Pacesetter downpipe,and the Pacesetter downpipe to the cat. Finally, it should look something like this:
Time to start her up!! Make sure you reattach the pulley you loosened first. Let the car heat up to normal operating temperature.
Gotta love the smoke coming from the paint being burned off. Pacesetter quality...
Now clean up the mess. Finally, go take her for a spin. I noticed a little power increase, but without intake or exhaust, don't expect much. The thing I do like is the way the revs sound outside the car. The Pacesetter headers aren't much larger than stock (if at all), but they make a sound difference.
The next few times your car heats up, retorque all the header bolts to make sure they're at spec. Do the same with the other bolts as well.
I hope this VFAQ helped you with the installation. If you have any questions, hit me up at jconvry@vt.edu .