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This page details how I removed the engine from my 1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. Please do not try to remove your engine using this web page as your sole reference material. It is intended to be a supplement to the shop manual and nothing more. In other words, if you follow these directions and screw it up - it's your problem, not mine. |
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Disconnect your battery - hopefully yours won't be all nasty like mine is. Take out the shelf and the brackets that hold it up, too. There are 4 bolts (12mm) on the shelf, and two bolts (also 12mm) that hold the support brackets to the frame. | |
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The whole air-intake, UICP, upper radiator hose mess - the before picture. All of this crap is coming out. | |
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Disconnect the BCS (Boost Control Solenoid). It might be a good idea to label it (along with all the other electrical and vacuum connections). I know you'll probably remember where it goes, but it couldn't hurt. | |
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Disconnect the MAS (Mass Air-flow Sensor) plug, too. Try not to bleed all over the car like me. Also, if you look at my hands, you'll realize that you should clean the engine bay before you start working on it. | |
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I got tired of taking pictures.
Remove the air canister (3 12mm bolts), disconnect the portion of the UICP (upper intercooler pipe) that holds the BOV. Loosen the clamp around the turbo inlet, Pull a couple of vacuum lines, and pull it out. Also, disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, and remove the radiator. Just unbolt the two brackets at the top of the radiator, disconnect the fans, and lift it out. I also removed the upper half of the thermostat housing. This isn't necessary, but since I'm replacing the thermostat, might as well do it now. |
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Man, I was feeling good until I realized just how much work there is left to do . . . | |
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Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle, and unbolt the bracket. If you have a 90, or don't have cruise control, it'll look a little different. The same concept applies, though. | |
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There are three things to note here. The electrical plug (I don't know what it's for) towards the left of the picture is disconnected (and labeled), the shift cables are disconnected (put the cotter pins back in so you don't lose them), the slave cylinder and the clutch line bracket has been removed. More on that slave cylinder in the next picture. | |
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If my hand wasn't in the way, you'd be able to tell that this is where the slave cylinder goes. You can remove it without disconnecting any of the clutch lines, but if you do disconnect them, you'll have to bleed the system after you put things back together. Never hurts to bleed it anyway . . . | |
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This ground wire connects under the clutch line bracket that was removed. | |
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This is where the power steering pump would be if I hadn't already removed it. Just unbolt the 14mm bolt on the left side of the pump, and the two 14mm bolts on the right side (through the pulley). | |
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When I removed the power steering pump, I disconnected the lines, and made a big mess. I'd recommend leaving the lines connected, and just shoving the pump off to the side. There's enough room that it won't get in the way when you're pulling the engine out. | |
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Again, where the alternator would be. Loosen the tensioner bracket, and remove the 12mm nut on the left side of the alternator (it's hard to get to). Slide the pivot bolt out to the right, then pull the alternator out. | |
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This is one of the connectors on the alternator (there are two, plus one on the power steering pump). Obviously, you disconnect these before you remove the pump and the alternator. | |
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Disconnect the wires underneath the thermostat housing. I believe there are 4 - the O2 sensor, the coolant temp sensor, and couple others (no idea what those are for). | |
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Remove the connectors for the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor), the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), all the injectors, the coil pack, and the AC compressor. Most of these are held on by "jesus!" clips, and are a royal PITA to remove. Once that's done, you can unbolt the loom and shove it out of the way. | |
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Pull the fuel return line and the vacuum line from the FPR. If you depressurized the system before you started, a little gas will dribble out. If you didn't depressurize, then a lot of gas will probably spill out. Make sure you put your cigarette out. | |
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Unbolt the fuel feed line from the fuel rail. Same deal w/ the gas spilling out; try to catch most of the gas that spills out. | |
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Pull the brake booster line out of the back of the intake manifold. You can either unscrew the fitting or just pull the hose off of it. | |
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Disconnect the idle switch and the ISC. You probably shouldn't uncrew the idle switch for a couple of reasons. One is that it's a real pain to get it put back in just right (and if you don't, your idle will surge), and the other is that . . . | |
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. . . you might break the wire like I did. Those wires get really brittle with constant heat cycles. That's probably going to be a PITA to fix. | |
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This is kind of a bad picture. Underneath the intake manifold is where the AC used to be. Remove the two lines connected to the compressor, and remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the bracket. It was rather easy to unbolt (I did it from the top), but it was nearly impossible to remove - be creative. | |
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Here's a better picture of where the AC was - note that the AC bracket is still connected to the block. You could remove that now if you want to do so - I waited until later. I suppose I should also add that you're supposed to have the Freon discharged by a shop that has environmentally friendly equipment for that purpose. | |
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Disconnect this rat's nest of vacuum lines and electrical connections (Fuel Pressure Solenoid, EGR Solenoid) on the driver's side firewall. | |
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Pull these coolant lines off of the thermostat housing - some coolant will probably come out, even though the system has already been drained. That rag is starting to get pretty nasty with all the oil, gas, and coolant all over it. | |
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Zoomed out picture of the above . . . just so you can see where everything goes. | |
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There are still several things you'll still need to disconnect in the engine bay - I didn't take pictures of all of them. There are the electrical connectors for oil pressure and the idiot light (oil filter housing brack), the speedometer cable, the starter wires, and a few other things I've probably forgotten to mention. Nonetheless, we're going to move on to other things - I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out. |
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Disconnect the knuckle. I beat on it with a hammer for a long time before I just got a pickle fork. Do yourself a favor and start with the pickle fork - it's so much easier. | |
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Disconnect the sway bar so that you can pull the knuckle down. | |
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You'll need to remove the axles, too. Pull the cotter pin on the wheel bearing, remove the (32mm IIRC) nut, then pull the axle out. I didn't take pictures of that, but you probably wouldn't have either if you were laying on your back under a dirty POS car in the driveway. |
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Pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. I disconnected it at the rear diff (4 bolts, baby), then disconnected the carrier bearings. This allowed it to hang down enough to pull it out. String up a coat hanger or something so that the driveshaft isn't sitting on the ground (do what I say, not what I do . . .) | |
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Time-lapse photography at it's best. Engine and transmission are out. Just hook up a cherry picker, unbolt the motor mounts, and pull it out. | |
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There's my engine - it's so depressing just how much work I still have to do. | |
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