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T/E/L Non-Turbo Exhaust Systems

This page describes the installation process for the Pacesetter cat-back, but the procedure is basically the same for any manufacturer's system.

From the catalytic converter to the muffler outlet(s), the exhaust sytem takes the same path and is suspended from the same hangers whether it is on a 1.8 or 2.0 NT or a FWD turbo T/E/L. There may be some difference in the placement of resonators and those other bulges in the pipes and the pipe diameter may be different, but they are more alike than not. The Mitsubishi parts catalog has illustrations showing that they are almost identical.

In short, we should be able to use any FWD cat-back system on any FWD T/E/L, regardless of engine. So, check out some of the other FWD systems. Just remember, there are some minor differences in the muffler mounting area that you should investigate early in the project.

Notes on the Pacesetter System

This really isn't a commercial for Pacesetter Marketing products, but their system has been about the only one available for the 1.8 and 2.0 NT, and NOPI was the only place that advertised it and it is the only one I have personal experience with. Actually, NOPI magazine ads have recently started listing the Pacesetter system with one catalog number for both the 1.8/2.0 2WD Eclipses (Talons and Lasers implied).

The Pacesetter system is made of heavy gauge 2 1/4 in. I.D. pipe. This is ok for the 2.0 NT and plenty big for the 1.8. The muffler is much smaller than the stock one and has two outlets with short, double-walled chromed tips that have some packing in them. The pipe bends are smooth and distortion free and the welds are neatly done on both the pipe and the muffler. The whole setup is painted black and still looks good after several years use. The best part is that NOPI currently sells it for $119.00, which is a bargain considering other systems are up to 3 times as much.

Installing the System on a '92 Eclipse

Installing a cat-back exhaust system is not really difficult, or at least is shouldn't be. Any good muffler shop would be able to install it easily and quickly but that costs a bunch. For us tight-wad non-professionals it is a little harder and may take all day Saturday (it is so much fun you will want to take frequent breaks).

The exhaust system is suspended by oval rubber biscuits attached to brackets bolted to the car. There are 2 mounts just behind the catalytic converter, one at the front of the muffler and 2 more at the rear or sides of the muffler. There is also a hanger midway between the muffler and the cat with 2 rubber donut-like rings to support this area.

Watch out for a couple of things before you (or your muffler man) rip out the old system. Make sure that the hangers on your car line up with the brackets on the new muffler and pipe. Some first generation T/E/Ls have a muffler with mounts at the sides and some have a double hanger at the rear of the muffler. The Mitsubishi parts book indicates the change was made between '91 and '92, but I have seen both groups with both mounts. My new Pacesetter muffler had the side mounts. However, some folks have bought systems with a rear mount. Make sure your car and the muffler you bought have mounts in the same places.

If your car has a rear mount and the new muffler has the side mounts you will have to buy two new hangers (brackets) from Mitsubishi. These are about $17.00 each (Mitsu part numbers MB548660 and MB548661) . The rest of the hangers are the same.

Also check for two drilled and tapped holes on the side of the frame above and towards the rear of the muffler. The bolts would go in parallel to the ground and point towards the center of the car. This is where one of the new hangers will mount.

Let's install the new exhaust system.

The installation is pretty straight-forward so I won't go into great detail. It is just unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one. Yeah, Right!

• Jack up the right side of the car and put jackstands front and rear.

• Remove the right rear tire to aid in getting to some bolts just in front of the rear axle, but this isn't absolutely necessary.

• Unbolt the pipe from the cat and the 3 bolts at the joint in front of the rear axle. Penetrating oil helps loosen them The two pieces will now just be hanging there.

• Remove the muffler first by removing the bolt through the lower end of the rubber biscuits at the three mounting brackets.

• Remove the lower bolts on the two mounting brackets behind the cat and and then the little flat bracket on top of the pipe where the two rubber rings are mounted and remove the pipe.

Let's take a break, get some refreshment and some Bandaids for those skinned knuckles and then install the new system.

• If you had to get the new hangers because of your car's configuration, install them now. If not, skip this step. Remove the double mount bracket from the car. The bolts will be used to mount the new right hanger.The left hanger is fairly straight and uses 2 bolts that hold part of a heat-shield to the bottom of the trunk area. The right one is the pretzel-shaped one and mounts on the side of the frame above the muffler as described earlier.

• Attach the muffler to the three rubber biscuits. You may have to bend the hangers on the muffler slightly so they will line up properly. Be careful not to bend the weld - just the hanger.

• The Pacesetter pipe from the cat to the muffler is in two sections in sort of an 'L' or 'Z' shape that are a tight slip-fit. Slide them together as far as they will go and attach the supplied C-clamp to the joint but leave it loose.

• Attach the Pacesetter-supplied bracket loosely to the pipe behind the cat, inline with the stock hangers and attach it to the rubber biscuits. Two hooks welded to the pipe near the slip-jount hang from the two rubber rings. Just hook them on.

• Now you can bolt the pipe to the cat and the joint in front of the rear axle. Don't forget the gaskets.

• Make sure everything is lined up and straight and not too close to things under the car and tighten all the joints and hanger bolts.

This system isn't perfect but is good value for the money. Some problems I encountered:

• The C-clamp at the slip joint in the middle was not the right size and I had a heck of a time getting it to fit the pipe. You may need to buy a bigger clamp. They are just a couple of bucks. The clamp also hit the floorpan of the car on bad bumps, so I took it off after a few months. It may not do this on your car.

• I had a problem with the supplied bracket for just behind the cat. It may have just been me, but I had to bend the outer rod pieces up slightly to take some load off of the rubber buiscuts.

• My only other complaint is that the exhaust tips aren't long enough. They end about 6 in. short of the rear bumber. This may no longer be the case as I understand they have gone to a single 4" tip. I was getting a lot of soot on the bumper, so I got some 2 1/2 in. I.D. chrome extensions and installed them over the muffler tips.

Overall it was not a difficult job. The Pacesetter is somewhat louder than the stock muffler, but not too bad. I think you will be able to tell a difference in the way the car runs, especially if you do the air canister mod and add a K&N.

When I bought my '93 2.0 NT in 1996, I took the Pacesetter system off of the '92 and put it on the '93. It fit perfectly and doesn't hit the bottom of the car anymore. Maybe I did a better job of lining up all the pipes the second time. Go figure.

Last updated on Feb. 2, 2000